Wednesday, March 30, 2011

A Regency Petticoat

This petticoat project began a few months ago for a friend getting into War of 1812 Living history. We had already made the stays (pictures forth coming) so this was the next item for her wardrobe. I followed the instructions from Jennie Chancey of Sense and Sensibility patterns here using her Original Regency Dress pattern. The above pictured original petticoat was great inspiration. It is from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and more information can be found here.
I highly recommend S&S patterns as I find they look great almost always right out of the envelope. I made this petticoat with no fittings and it fit the recipient perfectly.
It is just 100% cotton muslin for a utilitarian garment with china buttons. Since it will be worn with stays, boning was not necessary.
Side button closure so it can be put on and off without assistance.

Bethany Lynn

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Short stays.....

I love this pattern. It goes together so fast and I think it could be classified as relaxing. Or maybe I have just made it too many times. In any case, I highly recommend it. One tip though, it has too much ease. Use at least one size down if not two. I always make a muslin but cotton always seems to stretch just slightly and I have had to take in every set I have made on the side seams by about 1". If I would just use one size down when I make it, it would be perfect every time. Most patterns today have an average amount of ease and this pattern is not an exception. With wear, it becomes obvious that you want no ease for the support required.

I made the outer layer of this set of linen. The inner two layers are cotton twill. I love this combination the best as it looks great from the outside and yet the cotton twill does not break the bank.

The machine quilting under and beside the gussets adds support along with the two short pieces of boning on each side of the eyelets. Lacing is not shown. I've found it to be important that it is quite fitted for this amount of quilting and boning to be enough.

Bethany Lynn

Wednesday, March 23, 2011

An Edwardian Apron

Is it obvious that I love this pattern? It looks good on everyone, is completely adjustable and it, of course, serves its purpose in covering the wearer is so well. I had the opportunity to make this one for another special birthday girl.

Just 100% cotton...... cut out one night and then a seam here and there through out a few days until it was finished.

Happy birthday girl, I think :)

Bethany Lynn

Monday, March 21, 2011

More progress on the summer sheer.......

Last time I talked about it, I was trying to decide to use a pattern I already had or draft my own to make this summer dress. I decided to go ahead and draft my own from an existing custom pattern that I had already fitted to my friend and knew would need little alterations. This is how I did it.

Here we have the original pattern. It is a darted bodice with a flat back.

To make the front of the bodice open with no hooks and eyes, start at the edge where the neckline and shoulder meet and draw a straight line down.

Cut that off. Where the darts are, draw several lines going all the way up to the shoulder.

Measure your pattern with the darts closed. Mine happened to be 9 inches.

Cut up those lines that you drew and spread them out. You can do either a 1.5 to 1 or 2.1 gather ration. A 1.5 ration is shown but I prefer a 2.1 gather ration for this style. I multiplied 9" x 1.5 getting 13.5" for a 1 to 1.5 gather ratio. This is the measurement i want when I spread out my pieces.

Tape down the pieces and trace around the entire shape to get your new modified bodice pattern.

Label the pattern with what it is and the date so you don't forget anything. I added the gathering lines also. My pattern already had seam allowances. If yours does not, you can add that now.

For the back, I wanted a simple gathered back. This is my pattern to start out with.

Again, make a series of lines. Cut up them.

The back of the bodice on the fold is about 6".

Again I want a 1.5 ration for gathers so I spread to get 9" (1.5 x 6").

Tape it down and trace. Please ignore that second straight line at the bottom. I made a mistake. Yours should only have that curved line at the very bottom.

Again label and add markings.

I really like this style with a waistband. I wanted a 2" waist band so marked two inches up and then added a 1/2" seam allowance. In the end marking up 1.5".

Here are both finished patterns with marking for waistband. I later added another line with the seam allowance added to make it clear where I should cut for a bodice that has a waistband. I don't have a picture of that.

From here you can cut out your bodice along with a waistband to make a mock up. Make adjustments as needed and then mark those on your pattern. I needed to shorten the front a little and make the arm hole more roomy. Let me know if this can be clearer in anyway.

Just for clarification, your front shoulder will need to be gathered into the back shoulder. It should look like this.

Bethany Lynn

Wednesday, March 16, 2011

You can find me.............

Believe it or not but I am busy sewing over here! Unfortunately, not much to show for it because I don't have any pictures worth posting yet! The trousers are coming along quite well along with some dresses and an apron. I hope to post soon, honestly I do but in the mean time, you can find me over at my doula blog, One Doula. I don't update it that much but have been passing along some interesting things I have come across recently. It is completely different from this blog but you all might still find it of interest :)

Keep Calm and Sew On!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Tuesday, March 1, 2011

Stuff and nonsense

In case you haven't noticed, I usually update this thing every Tuesday. I'm not sure how that happened but I just kinda fell into a routine. Next Tuesday I will probably be driving through North Carolina to get back up here where I live. So, this blog will be silent for a while. I have lots of sewing to do but have not actually been doing much. I do have the mock up finished for the lawn summer dress and am getting ready to cut out the dress soon. Since I don't have any other updates, here are some fun things that I have come across lately:

Hope you all starting out well in the month of March! Spring weather is finally coming. Hooray! My new theme, "Keep Calm and Sew On."

As Always,
Bethany Lynn