Diary of a Seamstress

Checked Linen Shirt

2012-01-31T16:15:00.001-05:00

collar with neck gusset and shoulder reinforcement

hem and side vent

Fabric: 100% linen navy/white check

Pattern: J.P. Ryan Men's Shirt pattern View A

Modifications: I sewed the whole shirt by hand and did more flat felling than what was suggested. I wanted it to be a keep sake but also hold up with hard use from my dad. Putting lots of time into things seems to help that combination-- sentimentality and durability :)

Further Reading: I found Thoughts on Men's Shirts to be very interesting and helpful. You could draft your own pattern from this book but I of course liked having all that work done for me! It did help me know that the pattern was accurate and that I was on the right track as far as fabric and authenticity goes.

Happy Sewing!

Bethany

Lavender Spring Time

2012-01-28T11:01:00.003-05:00

Just another Practically Pretty dress, this time with white rick rack ordered special for the warm weather that we all know must be coming soon!

Blessings,
Bethany

Radiating Spring Table Runner

2012-01-10T16:45:00.000-05:00

Fabric: It's all from my scrap bin! I think it's all 100% cotton although I suspect that navy might have some poly in it. It all works out because it can still be washed cold and line dried. :)

Pattern: Free Table Topper Pattern

Modifications: Their cutting instructions are really odd. I recommend reading them and figuring out what the measurements are for the pieces and going from there. They assume you have a certain amount of fabric (several fat quarters) but following their cutting instructions just ends up wasting fabric. See! You can't quilt and get out of doing any math! Maybe I should have done some sort of quilting in that large middle square? Next time!

Blessings,
Bethany

"Victorian" Christmas Star Wall Hangings

2012-01-06T21:00:00.000-05:00

Fabric: 100% cotton "quilter's cotton" and polyester low loft batting.

Pattern: Look familiar? The larger one is the same as this other one I made but different fabrics. No kit used this time but I still had it all in my stash. The smaller wall hanging is the same pattern but the squares are cut one inch smaller.

Modifications: Same as for the other quilt: I added the hanging sleeve on the back for a dowel road to go through. I also cut binding on grain (since the edges of the quilt are straight and not curved) and sewed it right sides together to the BACK. This way when I fold it over to bind the edge, I can sew it on the machine and have it look good on the front. Most people sew the binding right sides to the FRONT and then fold it around to bind the edge and whip stitch it to the back. That takes f.o.r.e.v.e.r. I have a couple more wall hangings to do and I needed this to be done quick! That's my tip for quick quilts. :) I also machine stitched in the ditch instead of hand quilting.

Blessings,
Bethany

Sunshine on the Weathervane Wall Hanging

2012-01-02T14:30:00.001-05:00

Fabric: 100% cotton vintage fabrics (red and yellow) and 100% linen (brown and blue check)

Pattern: I used the weathervane block instructions from Hidden Block Quilts by Lerlene Nevaril Another example of a similar quilt is on the cover. If you want to take your quilting to a whole new level, I highly recommend this book! It contains blocks of varying levels so it can be as simple or as complex as you would like. Whether you are new to quilting or not, it really helps you with designing your own quilt. I learned so much just by making a simple wall hanging and can see how I could have played with the colors more for a completely different look. If you want to design and conquer something new, I bet you would find this book to be helpful!

Blessings,
Bethany

Curved Nine Patch Table Runner

2011-12-29T00:30:00.000-05:00

Fabric: 100% cottons. YAY for using up some of the stash!

Pattern: Curved Nine Patch Free Table Runner pattern

Modifications: I followed the pattern exactly but I did find that I used significantly less fabric than the pattern called for. I was concerned when I was picking out my fabrics because I was using what I had on hand and it seemed like it would not be enough. Cutting out the templates and laying it out worked well for me. If I had gone by the recommended yardage, I would have ended up buying more and having left over scraps. I love scraps but I was trying to use some up, not make MORE! This was my first time to do curved piecing in a quilted project so it isn't perfect. It also took quite a bit of time! I really like the affect it makes though.

Blessings,
Bethany

Merry Christmas to you and yours!

2011-12-25T12:21:00.003-05:00

“The light of the Christmas star to you, The warmth of home and hearth to you, The cheer and good will of friends to you, The hope of a childlike heart to you, The joy of a thousand angels to you, The love of the Son and God’s peace to you.”- Irish Blessing

Love and Blessings this Season,
Bethany Lynn

Men's Outdoor Coat

2011-12-20T20:39:00.003-05:00

Fabric: Polyester polar fleece and acetate lining.

Pattern: My Grandpa requested this coat by handing me the polar fleece fabric and an old, very worn jacket. I cut up the old jacket, added seam allowances and got the pattern. Easy peasy lemon squeezy. I almost felt bad cutting the poor thing up but it had a nice life and I'm sure I'll make some more jackets from this same pattern now that I have it.

Modifications: The old jacket was made out of flannel and had a quilted lining. The polar fleece was much thicker than the old flannel jacket so I had to leave the flaps off the front pockets. That's the only thing I changed! I even used the buttons from the old jacket. The whole project turned out to be much simpler than I thought and very fun!

Blessings,
Bethany

Winter Blue Toile dress

2011-12-13T16:17:00.004-05:00

Fabric: 100% cotton "quilters" cotton fabric.

Pattern: There is an explanation on the pattern used over here. If you are not up for changing a pattern so heavily, Baker Lane's Changing Seasons pattern can be used to get this look.

Blessings,
Bethany

Planning your Christmas Sewing

2011-12-06T20:00:00.000-05:00

(picture credit)

Stage 1: PLAN! If you don't plan you won't know your goals or your deadlines. That will lead to stress and Christmas presents that are not finished. That is no fun! Trust me, I know it is no fun! Make sure you plan ahead of time!

Step 1: First, Make a list of all the projects you would like to complete. This is mine:

Sage/Navy Table Runner (already finished)
Amish Colors Table Runner
2 sage/burgundy Christmas Wall Hangings
Red/Green traditional Christmas Wall hanging (already finished)
knitted hat
blue/red/gold Wall Hanging
Hunting Shirt
Present for my Sister ;)

Step 2: Then put the deadline date by each. Make sure you take into account shipping time to ensure they will arrive by Christmas and all that. This is my list with dates added:

Dec. 7th Sage/Navy Table Runner (already finished)
Dec. 18th Amish Colors Table Runner
Dec. 24th and Dec. 18th 2 sage/burgundy Christmas Wall Hangings
Dec. 14th Red/Green traditional Christmas Wall hanging (already finished)
Dec. 24th knitted hat
Dec. 18th blue/red/gold Wall Hanging
Dec. 14th Hunting Shirt
Dec. 24th Present for my Sister ;)

Step 3:Then, prioritize your list by what needs to be completed first. Mine now looks likes this:

Dec. 7th Sage/Navy Table Runner (already finished)
Dec. 14th Red/Green traditional Christmas Wall hanging (already finished)
Dec. 14th Hunting Shirt
Dec. 18th Amish Colors Table Runner
Dec. 18th blue/red/gold Wall Hanging
Dec. 18th and Dec. 24th 2 sage/burgundy Christmas Wall Hangings
Dec. 24th knitted hat
Dec. 24th Present for my Sister who reads this blog ;)

As of December 2nd, I have 22 days to complete my projects by Christmas Eve. If I divide my number of projects (7) by number of days I get an average of 3. This means that I should complete 1 project every 3 days and I will probably get them all done. You can take off Sundays by just minus-ing those days in your total number of days.

This also works for me because I can leave my family's projects till the very end. On this schedule I will have 9 days at the very end to do those 3 projects. It will also mean all the other projects will be finished 9 days before Christmas which is the perfect amount of time to ship them and have them arrive on time.

Stage 2: SEW! I guess that is the obvious stage :D. From now on, I will be taking a break from blogging until the New Year. When I get back, I can share all my finished projects! Certain people read my blog and I wouldn't want them to see their presents ahead of time!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

P.S.: While you are doing all of that sewing, why don't you give yourself a Christmas gift and work on your biomechanics too? The more you stand, the better your health is! (CLICK that link and READ it. No, I am not yelling at you.) You can change your sitting sewing station to a standing sewing station really easily. Stacking things to raise your machine might not be pretty but your body will be thankful!

(yes, it is always that messy in there.)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

"Men's Collar"

2011-12-02T13:55:00.001-05:00

Yarn: 1 ball of Palette Yarn in "Ash"

Pattern: Men's Collar in Knit and Crochet from Knitting Two a La Mode

Story: I made this for my dad's birthday because we have an event coming up in West Virginia that is quite cold. Knitting Two a La Mode is a collection of knitting patterns (with some crochet trim) that is suitable for 1860's living history as the patterns are from ladies magazines from that period. When I gave it to him, my dad reminded me that it would be great for riding his bike in the winter too! It gets cold with all that wind in your face and you can pull it up over you mouth and nose for extra warmth. I was glad to know it was quite versatile. ;)

Modifications: Ok, I didn't really follow the pattern even when I started because I didn't knit it in the round. At the end, I just sewed up the sides to form a tube. It was easier for me that way because I didn't have the right needles to knit it in the round. I only had two that were size 3. I did not have 5 double pointed or 1 set of circular. With that said, I followed the pattern besides knitting in the round until it came to "cast off 40". I didn't do that but just knit ALL (for me 120) the stitches instead of "knit the plastron on the rest of the stitches" (which would have been 80) until it was 7"-8" long. Since it needs to go on over the head, you have to cast off with a stretchy stitch. I made the mistake of casting off with my usual cast off and I couldn't get it on over my head! I ripped it out and used this stitch. It worked great!

I am rather new to following knitting patterns and it could be they wanted me to cast off and then knit the 7"-8" not in the round. If you use the pattern, I would recommend following the pattern first and then figuring out if you want to modify it. For all I know, their way is better! I might not have understood what they were saying but casting off so there is only 80 stitches and still knitting in the round would make this thing unable to get over any head! Just use your best judgement. With really small yarn, it does take some time to work up but I think it is a worthwhile project.

Happy Knitting!

Blessings,
Bethany

Christmas Star Wall Hanging

2011-11-28T11:30:00.001-05:00

(hanging sleeve and care label)

Fabric: 100% cotton "quilter's cotton" and polyester low loft batting.

Pattern: I cheated! I don't remember how I got it but the pattern and all the fabric was picked out for me in a kit. Normally, I like to pick everything out myself but I thought I should use the kit since I had it. Plus, this is the first of many Christmas presents and these fabrics definitely looked like what the recipient would like.

Modifications: I added the hanging sleeve on the back for a dowel road to go through. I also cut binding on grain (since the edges of the quilt are straight and not curved) and sewed it right sides together to the BACK. This way when I fold it over to bind the edge, I can sew it on the machine and have it look good on the front. Most people sew the binding right sides to the FRONT and then fold it around to bind the edge and whip stitch it to the back. That takes f.o.r.e.v.e.r. I have a couple more wall hangings to do and I needed this to be done quick! That's my tip for quick quilts. :) I also machine stitched in the ditch instead of hand quilting.

Blessings,
Bethany

Red Toile Dress

2011-11-25T15:21:00.004-05:00

Fabric: 100% cotton "quilters" cotton fabric with 100% cotton chambray fabric for the trim from this dress.

Pattern: There is an explanation on the pattern used over here. If you are not up for changing a pattern so heavily, Baker Lane's Changing Seasons and Catherine's Choice patterns can be used to get this look. Changing seasons has a darted bodice and if you add them to the Catherine's Choice bodice, you have this look.

Modifications: For this customer I needed to make the shoulders wider and lengthen the sleeves to 3/4 length. Both were so simple that I suppose they barely fit into the modifications category. They were just fitting changes and otherwise, I followed the pattern, which is just in my head, to a T.

Blessings,
Bethany

Civilian Sack Coat

2011-11-20T21:42:00.006-05:00

Fabric: 100% wool. October/November has to be the worst time to look for coat weight wool because everyone else is! So many places online were sold out of basic colors like gray and navy so I ended up buying this fabric from a sutler at an event. Note to self: Don't wait till the last minute to find fabric.

Pattern: Period Impressions Union Sack Coat pattern (just google it to find an online store that sells it. PI does not have an online store that I know of.)

Modifications: All I did was add a quilted lining. This pattern does not even tell you to put one in, which I find to not be a good advice! Without a lining, it really will not hold up well or be warm. My other modifications were just to make it look like more of a civilian coat than a uniform. I added more covered buttons and put the top button a little lower so I could roll the collar out to have a lapel. It really was not a very exciting project but there is quite a bit of mundane and practical in between sewing all the ruffles. :) That's just life.

Blessings,
Bethany

Peacock Feather Bonnet

2011-11-11T11:00:00.001-05:00

Fabric: 100% polyester mystery fabric from the Red Tag section of Joann's. All of the ribbons and feathers are from Joann's and are polyester too. It was my first bonnet so eventually I will make a silk one. :) Although, I do have to say that one stop shopping is *really* nice especially when you have friends to tell you what color looks best and that feathers do indeed look good on you.

Pattern: The Julia Bonnet pattern (1800-1809) from Timely Tresses

Modifications: The pattern was great and I followed it almost exactly except I didn't line it with a different fabric. I just used the fashion fabric because I had so much and it was cheap. I also didn't use buckram but again, that plastic cross stitch stuff. More info on that here. The tucks took forever but I think they were worth it.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Another basic

2011-11-07T10:00:00.002-05:00

Fabric: Gray mole skin from Joann's with acetate lining.

Pattern: Simple Summer Skirt pattern from Fashionably Modest Patterns (update: I am not sure what is going on with their website. You can try googling the company and looking for this pattern else where or contacting them through their blog if you are looking for this pattern.)

Modifications: Same as this jean skirt. Honestly though, I do have to say that moleskin is hard to work with. Maybe it was just this one, but it had absolutely no stretch. Think about doing rolled hems with no stretch >.< Next time I will look for a moleskin with some lycra or other fiber in it.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Soft and warm....

2011-11-02T00:00:00.000-04:00

Fabric: 100% Wool something from Ebay. I do suspect it has some synthetic in it just because of the feel but it was the cheapest price for the amount. Plus, I was in a pinch. The black is 100% wool too. Lining is silk taffeta and the batting is wool. Frog closures are synthetic. That would be why they are shiny ;)

Pattern: Kay Fig's Lady's paletote pattern
Modifications: Well, I haven't looked at the directions in ages so I am not sure how much I followed them or modified. The first time I used this pattern, I was new at sewing and fitting and the booklet was a God send. It had all sorts of instructions and helpful things in addition to how to put the actual coat together. I highly recommend it :).

Anyways, obvious modifications would be that I made the collar more pointed instead of a peter pan collar. The pattern has several options but I modified the peter pan collar piece in particular.

The sleeve was also supposed to be two pieces. I wondered why I had to ease it so much to get it to go together! I put the sleeve in and lined it before I realized so I just decided to leave it. If you follow the pattern, the sleeve would have more room but the slimmer sleeve worked ok for this client.

I can't remember but I think the pattern mentions quilting the lining as an option. I just cut the lining about a size larger because when it is quilted, it shrinks up a bit. You can have fun with the stitching pattern too. I did diagonal lines and a chevron in the back of this one.

Quilted lining on the inside. YES, it took time and YES it is so worth it and warm. Its amazing what natural fibers can do.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Pink and black with dots all over.....

2011-10-31T21:00:00.003-04:00

Fabric: 100% cotton from the "quilters" section of Joann's, acetate lining

Pattern: Simplicity

Modifications: Ok, so I went to Joann's and picked out the fabrics based on how many tiers I wanted. I bought 1/2 a yard of the top black/magenta floral and 1/4 yard of all the rest. That is all I had and if I went by the pattern, I would not have had enough. To compensate I shortened the length of each tier (not width) and for the recipient, it ended up being the perfect length. If your not 5 feet tall, you will need more fabric ;) It was hard to tell how it would look exactly, but it sure is fun! I also added the acetate lining (shown in second picture) which was not part of the pattern.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Ruffles and Stripes

2011-10-26T12:30:00.000-04:00

Fabric: 100% cotton lawn (or was it voile?) from Fashion Fabrics Club.

Pattern: I used my own pattern that was drafted from The Dressmaker's Guide instructions. If you wanted to make a similar dress, Past Patterns Fan Front bodice pattern would work. You would just need to use a different sleeve pattern.

Inspiration: Go look at Atlanta's gown! She has a lovely drawing and historical inspiration that this client loved. I was happy to oblige. When else would I get to do 21 yards of ruffles?! And get paid to do it.......

Those two ruffles added a good 4 hours to the construction of the dress. I was surprised at how long they took but they definitely "made" the dress. It would not be the same without them, especially since they are on the bias.

The kick plate is white so that when the dress is worn with white petticoats, the sheer fabric will look the same along the entire skirt. You don't have to do a kick plate with a sheer but I find that sheer fabrics are so light weight that a kick plate helps the skirt drape better. Without it, it seems to stick to the petticoats and ride up. With the kick plate, it is independent from the petticoats and makes a much better silhouette.

Gauging. It's bitter-sweet. It takes so much time and is so fiddly but dresses would not look the same without it.

The dog-leg closure with hooks and thread eyes. The eyes are in white thread so you can barely see them. Hook and eye tape secures the front.

I got to use my new Vienna Woods Historical Reproduction Tags. I am starting to think I should have ordered them in black print though..... oh well.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Every woman needs..... a jean skirt

2011-10-24T20:43:00.014-04:00

Fabric: I think it was a cotton/lycra blend..... Its just the darkest denim I could find from Joann's that could be machine washed and dried. The lining is acetate. Just make sure when you line something that it can be treated the same as the fashion fabric in the wash. ;)

Pattern: Simple Summer Skirt pattern from Fashionably Modest Patterns

Modifications: The length had to be shortened significantly for the recipient and I also did a double ruffle instead of a single ruffle. All I did was shorten and lengthen the ruffle piece accordingly. I also added a lining for warmth and as a sort of slip. I just used the skirt piece without the ruffle. So easy! Now I need one for myself.....and two other people I know rather well decided they would like one for Christmas too.

Yay! for new care tags! I was able to get them from Hobby Time on Etsy and am pleased as punch. They weren't very expensive and she has tons of choices available.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Girlhood Home Companion Magazine Giveaway!

2011-10-13T18:46:00.006-04:00

In case you haven't heard about the Girlhood Home Companion magazine, here is a brief synopsis from their website:

"The Girlhood Home Companion is a beautiful full color companion guide, magazine, and character study all rolled into one publication. The Girlhood encourages young ladies (ages 10-18) to enjoy their precious girlhood years while walking closely with the Lord and developing a deeper relationship with Him. Filled with the wisdom of writers from the past and present, each edition features encouraging articles and stories that center on one character quality per issue. Each theme is explored in-depth through editorials, articles, and stories that will minister to the heart of your daughter, while teaching her the practical skills of homemaking, cooking, crafts, sewing and other girlhood pastimes."

I was very privileged to be a part of their latest issue and I know you all will enjoy it. Jill and her family are precious and they pour so much into their work. They are having a giveaway for their latest publication so make sure you enter right over here!

Blessings,
Bethany

Cotton Circle Skirt

2011-10-13T11:00:00.000-04:00

Fabric: 100% cotton, quilters weight. Love this stuff. There are tons of choices and it drapes well for this sort of project.

Pattern: I purchased a vintage circle skirt pattern from Lanetzliving but that was a bit ago. If I was to do it again, I would just follow Casey's instructions! She did a circle skirt sew along and there are plenty of resources and explanations for anyone to sew one without a pattern. From drafting, to cutting, to sewing, its all there.

Modifications: If I were to do it again, I would have put some sort of stabilizer or interfacing in the waistband. I didn't know to do that at the time but it adds to the finished look and is very simple. It's in Casey's instructions so you can do it too, if you like!

Happy Sewing!

Blessings,
Bethany

Cordelia Silk Bonnet

2011-10-04T11:45:00.005-04:00

Fabric: 100% silk taffeta from a fabric.com sale

Pattern: Timely Tresses "Cordelia" bonnet pattern. I used Brim 2 without the bavolet. Highly recommend these patterns! I've used several and loved all of them.

Modifications: Instead of using buckram for the brims, I used that plastic cross stitch/mesh stuff. I'm sure it has a name but I can't remember what it is called! Joann's carried it and I did not want to have to order buckram online. It was cheap and I don't have to worry about the bonnet wilting if it were to rain. It was easy to sew, does not get "mushed" or crumpled if someone sits on it and it certainly was less time intensive to use since I didn't have to make a bonnet "form" with wiring and all.

Other than that, I followed the directions as is but did not put in a lining. I wanted it to be a light weight bonnet and since the taffeta is slippery on both sides, I did not need to worry about the fabric messing up the wearer's hair.

I made ribbon ties just by cutting the fashion fabric on the bias. Nice fabric doesn't fray!

Blessings,
Bethany

Federal Era Print gown

2011-09-27T14:22:00.008-04:00

Fabric: cotton reproduction print from fabric.com sale

Pattern: Sense and Sensibility original dress pattern for skirt and front bodice
Sense and Sensibility ELC pattern for back bodice
La Mode Bagatelle pattern (OOP) for sleeve

Sleeve cuff detail from garments on page 79, 102 and 109 of Costume in Detail by Bradfield

Modifications: I moved the front bodice away from the fold a couple inches to get the fan front look. Without the back opening from the original dress pattern and the drawstring opening from the ELC pattern, I needed another way for my mom to get this dress on and off! Enter button side closure. I also shortened the bodice to add the waistband.

I'm going to be using this format for projects from now on. I hope its helpful.

Blessings,
Bethany

Freeman House Exhibit

2011-09-21T12:00:00.002-04:00

Hooray for living in a small town! The Freeman House has been borrowing some off season things of ours. So glad its being appreciated when we're not using or wearing it.

And it *is* a really great exhibit. This is just one corner so you'll have to go and check it out for yourself to see what all is there. :)

As Always,
Bethany

Baby hats!

2011-09-16T12:00:00.001-04:00

Free fabric + free time = baby hats for a special midwife and her babies.

The free pattern from Tie Dye Diva was beyond easy and a great intro to sewing with knits. Now I know what stitches to use on my machine, if I need any particular needles and if the grain of the fabric affects anything. Win win situation :)

So glad that I have another bag of fabric to dig into,

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Pink party dress

2011-09-12T12:00:00.000-04:00

This dress was made out of cotton rib-stop voile from Fashion Fabrics Club. The color pink was requested in the form of a light sheer fabric and this certainly fit the bill. The trim was in the stash and the petticoat functions as a decorative under-skirt to match her mother's dress. I used Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Girls Dress Pattern again but a different bodice variation. I was not sure about the neckline but it worked out just perfectly! I really did not have to alter the mock-up much at all.

Again, this bodice style is flexible, un-fitted and allows for growth just like a yoked bodice. Perfect for this girl.

Adjustable back with extra eyes.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Ruffle-y Petticoat

2011-09-08T10:00:00.000-04:00

This petticoat was made out of a sheet to go with the printed day dress. Nice white sheets are so much better quality than cotton muslin which I am used to using. My hope is that this will wear even better and last much longer than the cotton muslin petticoats that I have.

The ruffle was chosen so that the wearer would not have to wear so many petticoats all at once. Ruffles on petticoats are more common in the late Victorian period (1870s) so that is why I make this clarification. It does do a pretty good job of poofing out the skirts though! It has a deep hem and a ration of 1.5 to 1 to the skirt of the petticoat. 2 to 1 could have been done but this seemed sufficient at the time. Once the ruffle was sewn onto the main petticoat body, I bound the raw edge with twill tape. I did not want it to fray and it adds even more body to the petticoat also.

The tucks, extra buttons along the waist and a drawstring in the back will allow the petticoat to grow with the recipient. If only I had done some of these things on my first petticoats a few years back!

The construction of the petticoat is very basic. Elizabeth Stewart Clark has the basic instructions I follow just without the ruffle how-to.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Girls Printed Day dress

2011-09-03T12:14:00.006-04:00

A sweet little girl crossed paths with my family and another and somehow made her way into all our hearts. This dress was made for her very first reenacting season. I used Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Girls Dresses Pattern and really loved it. I am used to constructing mid-nineteenth century dresses a certain way based on ESC's Dressmaker's Guide. This pattern worked well for me because it used all the same techniques and concepts that I was used to. I would not put it in a beginner level but anyone can make their first dress with this pattern and some patience.

Honestly, girls dresses don't necessarily take any less time than a woman's dress! Since the fabric is cotton, gauging seemed like the best idea. Gauging takes time! I seem to forget that every time I decide to do it.

Since this girl will be growing a lot in the next couple of years, the yoked bodice seemed like the best option. She really will not need another dress for fitting reasons because of the bodice, the adjustable back, and the tucks in the skirt. I made sure the sleeve bands were a bit roomy also.

They are a bit hard to see, but the back closure has hooks and eyes with extra eyes to make the waist smaller or larger.

To get the most use out of the dress, the bishop sleeves button into the puffed sleeves so the dress can be worn at hot summer events and cooler fall events. With a jacket and some warm underthings, she could wear this dress in the cold winter also.

At the end of making this dress, I decided that more dresses need trim! It took so little time and adds so much!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Dear Camera Cord,

2011-08-11T19:13:00.003-04:00

Dear Camera Cord,

You have been missing for a while. We have looked everywhere for you because without you, we have not been able to upload pictures from the past two months. Projects sit on the camera waiting for their new home in the black hole of the world wide web. We miss you. Please turn up soon.

~Your family

Battleshirts 1-2-3......

2011-06-24T12:00:00.000-04:00

Pattern used: Past Patterns #007

Modifications: Honestly, all I did was simplify like crazy when I was cutting out the pieces and after that, I did not follow the directions. I made three of these for the 150th Mannassas and needed to get them down quickly and efficiently without very much hand sewing. The directions say to do almost all of them by hand. I did everything by machine except for the buttons, buttonholes, and some whip stitching on the collar and cuffs. The trim is put on by hand.

Obviously, I did a plain placket front shirt. I placed the front piece on the fold, moved it away about 2 inches to allow for hemming the placket and ignored the "cut here" line where the pleated bib would normally be inserted.

In the end, I used the front, back, collar, cuff, sleeve and sleeve gusset pieces. If you have the pattern, you will see I left out a sleeve piece..... and I think something else. I really just winged it and looked at pictures to get the look at I wanted. Its just squares and rectangles! Anybody can do that :).

Pockets measure about 7"x7". Just draw it and add seam allowances. Cut the pattern on the fold if you are having trouble getting them even.

The pattern sizing is also extremely reliable! I really appreciate having so many sizes in one envelope. I have used this pattern so many times and will continue to do so. It is so worth what I paid for it!

Fabric used: 100% wool from...... I forget where. It's itchy. I can tell you that.

References: First Bull Run 1861: The Souths First Victory by Alan Hankinson page18

Don Troiani's Soldiers in America page 137

History: Basically, in the early part of the way, uniforms consisting of more complicated jackets could not be made fast enough to outfit all of the soldiers. Battleshirts were used instead. They went together quickly, still do, and made for a cohesive look. I sound like I am talking about room decor but really, it makes a difference.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Simple corset finished.....

2011-06-20T16:48:00.008-04:00

Pattern: Past Patterns 703

Modifications: I made the back lace all the way down because having part of the back sewn together creates some serious pressure points. Trust me, it hurts and it is super easy to fold that part of the pattern under and continue on your merry way.

I also bound the top and bottom raw edges with 1" twill tape. I can't even remember what the pattern said to do but I am pretty sure it does not say to bind it with twill tape because I have done a lot of things before..... never as easy as binding with twill tape! Just have about 1/4" show on the outside and that will insure it will be neat. You will be able to top stitch close to the edge on the front and having more on the back, you will catch it as you go along. It took me a few corsets to figure out I should not just do 1/2" on the front and 1/2" on the back!

Last thing, I never put in that horse hair braid stiffener thing that goes at the bottom. It is supposed to be a support for the petticoats as it flares out more than the hips alone naturally do. Personally, I have found that hips are quite enough! I would rather not deal with that stuff as I would have to order it from yet another place, pay for more shipping, insert the stuff, and deal with some leather covering that the pattern calls for also. Simple is good and finished is better than perfect!

Fabric used: Coutil outer layer and twill inner layer. It was the first time I used coutil and it was just wonderful. If only it weren't so expensive!

All done! Now I just need to make a nice new one for myself.....

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Summer whites.....

2011-06-13T12:00:00.000-04:00

Another chemise using Simplicity 9769! I usually don't relish making these as whit fabric gets boring and the details can be tedious (why the gores again?!) but once they are finished, I get a lot of satisfaction out of just looking at them. They are so simple, light and just perfect for summer. Everyone wants to wear them as nightgowns but this one is for a living historian, I promise. Its so tempting to keep it for myself as it is just my size!!!

Another project finished. This year is flying by.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Two chemisettes.....

2011-06-06T12:00:00.001-04:00

Just some summer whites-- easy, practical. I mentioned this chemisette project over here. and just finished them a few weeks ago. One is made of simple cotton muslin and the other is a windowpane cotton voile. That dress is finished too but it is already at its new home! Pictures someday.

Collar attached... buttons down the front.... twill tape on the sides for ties....
back.......
And this picture just shows how I came up with the pattern. This is just her custom mid 19th century bodice pattern. All I did was draw a line a couple of inches from the outside shoulder and go straight down to the waist line. I added some for a hem on the bottom and sides, cut the back on the fold and made sure there was enough over lap to allow for buttons on the front. I used the collar pattern that I had already made. Doing this ensures that the dropped shoulder will be mimicked in her chemisette just like it is in her dress...... and I don't have to worry about it fitting right ;-). I know it will fit ok because its her custom pattern. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Swimsuit!

2011-06-03T17:06:00.007-04:00

Sorry, long time no talk! Anyways, this was a birthday present for my sister back in April. We found it was high time that I sat down to figure out this bathing suit thing! I used Olivia's e-book and I am really happy with the way Becca's suit turned out. I made one for myself too but as usual, no pictures yet. The instructions were great and I would definitely use them again!

Olivia's instructions include dozens of variations. I did a cap sleeve with some elastic in the hem for Becca.....

.... and a circle skirt that was so simple!

The 4-way stretch spandex is from fabric.com. Unfortunately, they don't seem to have any good options for swim suits right now. Olivia includes some suggestions for other places to buy swim suit fabric online too. Once I had the pattern drafted, it only took me about 4 hours to make. I did use a stretch stitch that came on my machine. The whole process was so forgiving and stress free. If something didn't match up, I could either cut it off or just stretch it to match! Nothing needs to be hemmed and the seams don't need to be finished because the fabric does not fray!

The only thing I don't like is that 4-way stretch spandex fabric can be rather expensive at $10 or more per yard. I was able to get this swim suit out of 2 yards (recognize the fabric from this project?) and have often seen this kind of fabric on sale for $5 a yard in the winter ;-). Just watch the sales and use coupons!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Another housedress......

2011-04-26T13:46:00.008-04:00

For Resurrection Day, another housedress for my mom. Made just like this one but in a different fabric and color of piping. As you can see, I *am* starting to work through that pile of fabric. It just takes some time ;-) I have made up one another but just need to take pictures.

The fabric is a simple quilters cotton that was probably $2.50 per yard from Wal Mart and took about 3 yards. I made the piping myself using some thick yarn and a bed skirt from the scrap bin was the perfect shade of pink. I hardly ever throw any fabric away! The buttons were in the button box and I recall buying a gallon bag of white buttons for $5 a few years ago. Consequently, those buttons were just pennies. The total cost of this dress was less than $10!
If you are thinking about sewing garments with cottons, there are a few things that really helped me out. They are certainly one of the easiest fabrics to sew with but many do not like sewing garments from cotton because of the wrinkle factor. My Grammie taught me by example that taking these dresses out of the washer promptly is important. She then taught me to hang them on the line while wet and shake out the wrinkles. It takes out most of them and the wind does the rest. Sewing thicker hems (1.5"-3") is a really good idea also. Once smoothed out on the line, they will not turn up but hang very nicely and behave well.
Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Vogue 2979 Finished

2011-04-23T14:43:00.008-04:00

More information here on the dress. When I started this project, I had never sewn a formal before with this combination of fabrics. I have sewn formal costumes with natural fabrics like wool silk blend or cotton and I have sewn fantasy costumes with this sort of fabric but never a formal dress for modern wear with these fabrics. It was a learning experience and I would do it again!
There are a few things that I learned which I wish I would have known before I started:

1. Acetate does melt. Hot iron + funny smell = acetate melting!!!
2. You don't need special sewing needles to work with slippery fabrics. It is actually rather forgiving and works with normal needles. I just wasn't sure because knit fabrics need special needles.
3. Most people don't know what horsehair braid is and you will probably have to ask an employee in order to find it ;-)
4. When you insert a zipper, line the dress and proceed to fold the lining under right next to the zipper and whip stitch it down, no matter how neat it looks, those little stitches will get caught in the zipper! Be practical before pretty. Trust me.
5. A formal dress sewn from a wedding dress pattern is really not all that different from sewing a wedding dress. No reason to freak out when people ask you about making wedding dresses ;-)
6. Man made fibers fray pretty bad. Finish everything. It helped that it was lined but I did do some serging.

This is a picture of the "horse hair" braid that was put in the hem of the skirt to make it stand out a bit more. It is nice because it helps the dress float away from the body a bit more but does not add quite as much support as say, a hoop would. This picture is also the best representation of the actual color of the gown also. More warm than royal :)

Blessings,
BethanyLynn

Those pillow things.....

2011-04-19T11:50:00.008-04:00

These are always a hit and I honestly wish I had one for myself.... in any case, they take hardly fabric and I just have to make sure I keep poly fill on hand. I think I figured out one back of the stuff makes 5 pillows... not that I have made that many yet. The idea came from Sew Darn Cute by Jenny Ryan.

Jenny's idea was to do a patchwork top for interest. I have done that a couple of times and it always turns out cute. I used fabric from Marie Madeline Studio for this.

I did have to go to the copy store and enlarge the pattern but it really was simple in the scheme of things. Since I have used it several times, it was worth my time.

The two plain ones were for the grandparents on their plane trip back home. They are so much nicer to use than expecting the head rests in the plane to do their job!

I made these in between other tasks but I think one could be made in half an hour. I know that because I am procrastinator and don't mind helping other procrastinators out. ;-) If you really are in a pinch, you could draft the pattern yourself. I could just be characterized as lazy and didn't want to reinvent the wheel when I already had the book.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Vogue 2979

2011-04-12T07:34:00.000-04:00

Recently, a friend approached me about making a formal for a special occasion at the end of this month. She wanted it to be modest and yet pretty, flattering and one of her favorite colors. We were blessed to have one stop shopping at Joanns. I think it has been one of the most stress free projects that I have ever had!

Here I was cutting it out but it is almost finished now! I just need to hem it and get some pictures outside. More to follow.

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Lately, these are my favorite cookies. They are not super bad for you but are still sweet and full of energy. I started with the recipe from Sweetly Raw and changed it so it would not have coconut. Enjoy!

Raw Chocolate Chip Cookies

Grind 1 cup almonds and 1 1/3 cup rolled oats in the blender until they turn into flour. Add a pinch of salt and 1 teaspoon Stevia.

In another bowl, combine 1 stick of softened butter*, 1/3 cup honey, 1/2 teaspoon vanilla.

Mix together wet and dry. Add 2/3 cup chocolate chips or cocoa nibs.

Spoon onto a tray covered in wax paper. Place in freezer until firm. Store in freezer. Makes about 24 small cookies

*If you prefer not to have dairy in the cookies, you can use coconut oil instead. Do not use the same amount but add it to the mixture once the wet and dry are combined. Pour it in slowly until it is moist enough for it to all mix but do not add too much so that the dough spreads out when put on the tray.

Blessings,
Bethany

Clothing an army.....

2011-04-08T13:45:00.001-04:00

....... well maybe not quite but sometimes it is easy to feel that way!

24 eyelets, 32 buttons and 38 button holes later, I finished 4 pairs of trousers and 2 pairs of suspenders. They will be passed along to their new owners next weekend. I used the Timeless Stitches boys Trouser pattern. Scroll down on that page a bit. I thought that since the pattern was not too expensive, that it would not be of very good quality but I was impressed! The instructions were easy to follow with many options and historical background. The pattern was printed on nice paper and was easy to fit and lengthen or widen if necessary.

It suggested doing these eyelets on the back to make it adjustable and found this works well. A buckle with adjustable strap would do just fine also. I made the largest size for these growing boys but if made to fit more closely, these eyelets wouldn't be necessary.
Button fly front
Pockets
Suspenders
I thought having the button on the inside would make the buttons less susceptible to popping off. Since the two brothers will be matching and the only difference is the length, I also put an initial on the waistband of each.

Overall, I think a beginner could make these with some help. Trousers really are not that hard to make. Just take it one step at a time and you will be finished in no time at all.

Note for self: 2 pairs of trousers can be cut out of 2 3/4 yards of 60" wide twill. 1 yard of 60" wide twill will make the suspenders, pockets, linings ect.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Bath mats!

2011-04-04T16:00:00.000-04:00

This was a super simple project that took me maybe 30 minutes. I already had some fabric on hand and narrowed down 3 or 4 choices to this one. Its just home dec fabric in a "ticking" weave. I think I remember buying it on the clearance. Anyways, the baths mats in our bath room were white (what was I thinking?!) and just not cutting it anymore.

Before

After

I think the idea originally came to me because of Anna's floor cloth. It seemed so simple. Why improve on it? It was especially nice because the stripes kept me stitching straight and made the rolled hems even easier to execute! Its a great project for a beginner after those cloth napkins and table cloths :)

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

A Regency Petticoat

2011-03-30T07:00:00.000-04:00

This petticoat project began a few months ago for a friend getting into War of 1812 Living history. We had already made the stays (pictures forth coming) so this was the next item for her wardrobe. I followed the instructions from Jennie Chancey of Sense and Sensibility patterns here using her Original Regency Dress pattern. The above pictured original petticoat was great inspiration. It is from the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston and more information can be found here.
I highly recommend S&S patterns as I find they look great almost always right out of the envelope. I made this petticoat with no fittings and it fit the recipient perfectly.
It is just 100% cotton muslin for a utilitarian garment with china buttons. Since it will be worn with stays, boning was not necessary.
Side button closure so it can be put on and off without assistance.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Short stays.....

2011-03-26T16:15:00.000-04:00

I love this pattern. It goes together so fast and I think it could be classified as relaxing. Or maybe I have just made it too many times. In any case, I highly recommend it. One tip though, it has too much ease. Use at least one size down if not two. I always make a muslin but cotton always seems to stretch just slightly and I have had to take in every set I have made on the side seams by about 1". If I would just use one size down when I make it, it would be perfect every time. Most patterns today have an average amount of ease and this pattern is not an exception. With wear, it becomes obvious that you want no ease for the support required.

I made the outer layer of this set of linen. The inner two layers are cotton twill. I love this combination the best as it looks great from the outside and yet the cotton twill does not break the bank.

The machine quilting under and beside the gussets adds support along with the two short pieces of boning on each side of the eyelets. Lacing is not shown. I've found it to be important that it is quite fitted for this amount of quilting and boning to be enough.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

An Edwardian Apron

2011-03-23T12:25:00.000-04:00

Is it obvious that I love this pattern? It looks good on everyone, is completely adjustable and it, of course, serves its purpose in covering the wearer is so well. I had the opportunity to make this one for another special birthday girl.

Just 100% cotton...... cut out one night and then a seam here and there through out a few days until it was finished.

Happy birthday girl, I think :)

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

More progress on the summer sheer.......

2011-03-21T17:51:00.020-04:00

Last time I talked about it, I was trying to decide to use a pattern I already had or draft my own to make this summer dress. I decided to go ahead and draft my own from an existing custom pattern that I had already fitted to my friend and knew would need little alterations. This is how I did it.

Here we have the original pattern. It is a darted bodice with a flat back.

To make the front of the bodice open with no hooks and eyes, start at the edge where the neckline and shoulder meet and draw a straight line down.

Cut that off. Where the darts are, draw several lines going all the way up to the shoulder.

Measure your pattern with the darts closed. Mine happened to be 9 inches.

Cut up those lines that you drew and spread them out. You can do either a 1.5 to 1 or 2.1 gather ration. A 1.5 ration is shown but I prefer a 2.1 gather ration for this style. I multiplied 9" x 1.5 getting 13.5" for a 1 to 1.5 gather ratio. This is the measurement i want when I spread out my pieces.

Tape down the pieces and trace around the entire shape to get your new modified bodice pattern.

Label the pattern with what it is and the date so you don't forget anything. I added the gathering lines also. My pattern already had seam allowances. If yours does not, you can add that now.

For the back, I wanted a simple gathered back. This is my pattern to start out with.

Again, make a series of lines. Cut up them.

The back of the bodice on the fold is about 6".

Again I want a 1.5 ration for gathers so I spread to get 9" (1.5 x 6").

Tape it down and trace. Please ignore that second straight line at the bottom. I made a mistake. Yours should only have that curved line at the very bottom.

Again label and add markings.

I really like this style with a waistband. I wanted a 2" waist band so marked two inches up and then added a 1/2" seam allowance. In the end marking up 1.5".

Here are both finished patterns with marking for waistband. I later added another line with the seam allowance added to make it clear where I should cut for a bodice that has a waistband. I don't have a picture of that.

From here you can cut out your bodice along with a waistband to make a mock up. Make adjustments as needed and then mark those on your pattern. I needed to shorten the front a little and make the arm hole more roomy. Let me know if this can be clearer in anyway.

Just for clarification, your front shoulder will need to be gathered into the back shoulder. It should look like this.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

You can find me.............

2011-03-16T12:33:00.004-04:00

Believe it or not but I am busy sewing over here! Unfortunately, not much to show for it because I don't have any pictures worth posting yet! The trousers are coming along quite well along with some dresses and an apron. I hope to post soon, honestly I do but in the mean time, you can find me over at my doula blog, One Doula. I don't update it that much but have been passing along some interesting things I have come across recently. It is completely different from this blog but you all might still find it of interest :)

Keep Calm and Sew On!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Stuff and nonsense

2011-03-01T09:44:00.002-05:00

In case you haven't noticed, I usually update this thing every Tuesday. I'm not sure how that happened but I just kinda fell into a routine. Next Tuesday I will probably be driving through North Carolina to get back up here where I live. So, this blog will be silent for a while. I have lots of sewing to do but have not actually been doing much. I do have the mock up finished for the lawn summer dress and am getting ready to cut out the dress soon. Since I don't have any other updates, here are some fun things that I have come across lately:

Finally found an original bodiced petticoat! Or what looks like anyways. Post on that coming soon.
Nothing to do with sewing but I found Shoshanna's website and am excited about reading this book along with a million others.
Jenna from Where the Heart Remains is doing a really fabulous giveaway if you are interested!
A friend of mine told me about Vintage Remedies and I am thinking about going through the program, eventually.
Sarah Jane made a really beautiful pair of Regency long stays. They turned out so much better than the pair I made!!! There's more inspiration for you if you are thinking about making a pair sometime.
Last but not least, I recently came across Sew Serendipity and their line of patterns. I really love all of it and am excited about using them!

Hope you all starting out well in the month of March! Spring weather is finally coming. Hooray! My new theme, "Keep Calm and Sew On."

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Summer dress beginnings

2011-02-22T12:19:00.012-05:00

With the new living history season comes warm weather and ladies in want of dresses to suit. This dress is to be for a lady in our living history group who only has a wool dress right now. The style is one that is open all the way down the front and is then filled in with a neckerchief or a chemisette. I have the PeachTree Mercantile pattern but I have not decided yet if I want to use it and fit it to her or change her darted bodice pattern that I already know hits her well to be this style.
This floral lawn was found at Fashion Fabrics Club when it was on sale. It is not sheer but is very light with a tight weave.

I was inspired by these dresses when I was coming up with style options. No one in our group has done this style yet so I thought it would be a great opportunity once I saw how lovely it turned out for all of these ladies!

More pictures from Vivian Harrington here.

More pictures in the Kay Fig Gallery.
Denise's lovely creation found here.

Wool dress, circa 1860 found here.

Once my friend approved the idea, I started looking for chemisette ideas. I came up with these.

Denise's very pretty chemisette found here.
And some fancy chemisette examples from Godey's magazine.

I will keep you posted on how things come along!

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Repro quilt beginnings .......

2011-02-15T13:48:00.000-05:00

With the new living history season starting in April, my sister and I thought it would be a good plan to get a head start on a quilt. Last year we quilted at a lot of events and had a hand quilted quilt by the end of the season. If we did the same this year it would be really great! I am also researching quilt frames and we just might reproduce one but more on that later! ;)

With our other reproduction quilts, we have used the quiltstudy.org website almost every time. There are thousands of quilts on their and it has to be the easiest way to find and source an antique quilt! The IQCS object number is 2005.048.0006 and is circa 1830-1850 with the main fabric being cotton and of course, all hand sewn.. I would just link to the page on the quiltstudy.org website but last time I did that, the link was broken after a short time. Just go to "collections" and then search the collections using the IQSC if you would like more information.
A few days ago when we picked out the quilt to reproduce, we also went through our scraps to find fabrics in the colors that we wanted to use. Here they are sorted and ironed. That took some time because we certainly don't store them that way!

We also picked the main fabric that would go in between each pieced block and made a chart to figure out how many blocks we wanted of each color. The original seems to have a tone on tone white stripe in the pieced blocks with the colors so we went with the homespun peach and cream stripe shown in the picture.

As I was searching the quilt study.org collection, I also found these two quilts. They are also nine patch variations but with the light/dark parts of the blocks in the opposite pattern. I think it might be called an "album quilt" when made this way. Both of these quilts are from the 1830-1865 time frame.

IQSC object number is 1997.007.0697 for the above quilt.
IQSC object number is 1997.007.0704

More to come as we hopefully progress!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Projects......

2011-02-11T11:18:00.003-05:00

Right now I am working on pants. Not that interesting but a necessary thing none the less! I am using the Past Patterns Summer Trouser pattern to make two pairs and the Timeless Stitches boys trouser pattern to make 4 pairs for two brothers. Full reviews to come! I am really liking how they are going together so far.

I finished a set of placemats that my neighbor ordered but I totally forgot to take pictures! I worked on those most of this week and trousers for the rest of the time. These projects aren't that exciting but I guess part of having sewing skills is doing the practical as well as the more creative :-)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Quilt top finished!

2011-02-05T18:09:00.000-05:00

I never thought I would finish this thing. I think I started it about two years ago and had the crazy idea to make it HUGE. I did not know how big huge was going to be and I can't even tell you if it is a queen or king or what but I can tell you it is big. I know its big cause it took ages to put those blocks together! But I do like how it turned out. I can't imagine quilting the thing any time soon. I am just glad to know it is a finished top and is now put together. The rows were sitting in a basket for the longest time just waiting to be sewn together.

I know I've sewn big quilts before but I think those times seem like the distant past. I forget ;)

Info on putting the blocks together here and laying out the blocks to choose the border here. All the information on where I found the pattern and such is in those posts.

Phew. Having the quilt on the table makes the room look warm since we have 6 inches of snow outside. I think I will just leave it there.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Exercise Ball Cover.....

2011-02-01T14:08:00.000-05:00

Ok, lets be honest. You probably thought you would not see something like this on here. ;-)

I made this a couple of days ago in about 20 minutes out of swim suit material. It took about a yard and I already had it on hand. Hooray for using up the stash! I saw the cover idea over here but did not want to pay that price so I decided to make my own.

It's basically a rectangle, open on one end with the drawstring. The other end is sewn shut and has the handle inserted at each corner. The material is 60" wide and went around my 65 cm ball just perfectly.

So why the cover? First of all, that strap is handy! If you have ever taken one of these things somewhere and had it go running away across the parking lot, you know what I mean. Most people know these balls as exercise balls but I know mine as a birth ball. I am working toward my CE/D certification through Charis Childbirth right now and have been learning that these balls offer really great comfort techniques during labor. My ball is made out of rubber that is not very smooth and has ridges on it. This is not comfortable if you are leaning or sitting on it. A cover makes it smoother and is nice for clean up too. Hopefully I will make a few more in case they get dirty and so I can carry it in one, and switch it out for a clean one at the birth place :) More information here on how it is actually used during labor if you are interested. You learn something new everyday right?

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Finished Long Stays

2011-01-29T11:57:00.013-05:00

As I mentioned previously, my mother was in need of stays for the upcoming season at Fort McHenry. I have made several pairs of short stays for different people but decided that long stays would be best for her. I had the Past Patterns long stays pattern on hand but if I would have had the Mantua Maker pattern, I would have used that. I purchased the Past Patterns long stays pattern on accident thinking that it said 1810-1820 and when I got it, I realized it said 1830-1840. The gussets and over all shape is quite similar so I'm not sweating it but I would still like to try the Mantua Maker pattern in the future just to see the differences. The instructions talk about the straps being this way and the gussets being that way to get the Early Victorian look. I would like to make up the Mantua Maker one to see if there is a huge difference in the finished silhouettes.

I used View A called the wedding stay. There are all sorts of fun pretty things that you can add so I assume that is why it is called that. This is to be a very utilitarian sort of garment so I did not take the time to do any of those fun things. I chose View A because it shows more boning than View B, the Corded Stay. Cording takes lots of time and boning is faster so that was my thought process behind choosing View A. If I were to do it again, I would do View B and just put more boning where cording is recommended. The over all shape of View B looks more practical to me so I would like to try it and compare the two further.

My mom was one size in the waist/hips and another in the bust so I just followed the lines where appropriate depending on what part of the corset it was. After the mock up, I also realized I had to shorten it quite a bit so I just hacked off about 4 inches so she would be able to sit down in it comfortably. With taking off quite a bit of the length, I also had to modify the hip gussets to allow for the shortened length and still get the full width to allow for the hips. Hopefully you can get an idea of those changes in the picture below. All of this was figured out on the mock up. Remember lesson number 1? Always make a mock up!

I debated with myself on whether to do hand done eyelets are not. I have a grommet setter and what seems like millions of metal grommets on hand so I could have done them quite easily. In the end though, isn't it nice to have the entire thing be white? I think metal grommets would have ruined the look. After I was finished, I figured out I can do 10 eyelets in 1 hour so it really did not set me back that much. It was good practice too.

Yes, that is polyester ribbon. I promise to get something better eventually ;-)

The way the bust gussets are shaped, you have to have a drawstring at the top of the stays or pre-gather the fabric and then bind it. Other wise the fabric sits away from the body making a very unflattering sort of shape. The pattern shows 3 ways to do control the fabric this way which I thought was super interesting. I chose the variation that just put another binding on top of the binding that was already put on. Ribbons are inside and stitched so they will not come undone near the straps. Eyelets are then worked on the inside to draw it up however much is necessary. I made the binding out of the same twill fabric used for the body. The rest of the corset is bound in this matching fabric so I thought it would be fine but it is just too thick. When gathered, it is rather bulky. If I did it again, I would use a thinner fabric.

I used a paint stick for the busk. It was free. What can I say! The instructions include information on making your own but I know nothing about wood working so I was so not going to go there. My dad made the paint stick the right length and it seems to be fairly sturdy so far.

More eyelets at the bottom with a ribbon keep the busk in. If the stays need to be washed, it comes out quite easily. I thought that was smart :)

ETA: I forgot to add previously that I did alter the angle of the straps. This is the seam where the strap attaches in the back shoulder area. While sewn like this, the strap goes more on the outside of the shoulder than over it. With the lines of Regency dresses and the fact that my mom needs to be able to do more active things while wearing these stays, I wanted to change the straps to make them go over the shoulder, not around.

She put the stays on for me to figure out how the angle should be and then I just pinned it to know where to sew. Top-stitching works fine! I was not going to take out that seam if top-stitching would look neat and tidy. ;)

If I would do it again, I would add more cording or quilting vertically between the hip gussets. It just seems to need it but at least the lines of Federal Era dresses are rather forgiving.

By the way, whenever I do posts like this, I try to include *everything* I did, didn't do, wish I had done and information on the pattern too. This is for me because there is no way I will remember all this stuff when I go back and need to use the pattern again. I also do it for other people so that when they used the pattern, they will kind of know what to expect. If there is anything that you think I forgot and should include, please let me know. Feed back is always good when it is fresh in my mind so I can answer questions better.

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

When I wish I didn't have to sleep

2011-01-25T19:25:00.004-05:00

Katherine makes me wish I didn't have to sleep. Especially when I see her 2009 costuming year in review........ and then her 2010 year in review. I would post some pictures here but you'll just have to go over there and see for yourself ;)

All I can say is that everyone should have someone who makes them reach for the sky. Who makes you reach for the sky?

I'm working on a pair of these for my mom. When I finish them, I'll update again.

Till then,
Bethany Lynn

Giveaway fun and thoughts on Sewing

2011-01-23T14:26:00.000-05:00

I received a package in the mail a couple of weeks ago and could not for the life of me figure out who it was from until I opened it! I won the giveaway from the Opulent Poppy! I saw the announcement on there of course, but it was like a surprise all over again! Thanks, Eva Girl!

I already have plans for the fabric and the apron pattern is super cute! I am really looking forward to using it once I size it up ;) Becca really wants to make a hat from the other pattern too. Thanks again!

Also, I just have to link to this article. Janel says everything I want to say but in a more eloquent and organized manner than I ever could. I have received several comments on here from some dear ladies that would like to sew or know how to sew better but just are not sure where to start or are overwhelmed. I would say just what Janel says, Just Start! It really is not rocket science and won't hurt anyone! Sewing is just a skill. Nothing more. I would go so far to say that it does not require any talent, just diligence but I know not everyone would agree with me on that. I started sewing when I was fairly young but I wasn't 2 either. I did not really have an interest until I was 13 or 14 and I had nobody to show me how. The internet is really great :) There was a learning curve.... but I learned a lot through the mistakes. Just start and you won't regret it!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Re-do!

2011-01-19T09:21:00.003-05:00

In a few words, our work space needed some work so we worked on it right after New Years to make it more functional. With Becca sewing more, she needed space for her machine to be set up all the time and yet I still wanted room to cut things out on the table. We certainly could not have both all the time with the way it was not to mention the stuff that was absolutely *everywhere*.

If you had asked me, I would have said there was absolutely no way we could fit a 6 foot table in there..... but we did and it is great! With the 6 foot table at the same height as the white table that was already in there, we have 9 feet of cutting space. That means we can cut out anything that is up to three yards long! That might not be exciting to most people but most garments are under three yards and every time we wanted to cut something out, we either had to clear off the table or cut things out on the floor in the living room. Of course then we would have to vacuum too with the threads that go everywhere with that. Anyways, it is nice. I love it.

Before I forget, those two posters on either side of the tables, on the wall, are from England. They are supposed to be wrapping paper but they are way to pretty for that! I bought them at ~~Harrod's~~ Fortnum and Mason's and 16 year old me rolled them up and carried them on the plane all the way back here. What was I thinking?! No need to answer that. I sure do like them though :) Fashion plates certainly do fit in. You have to give me that.

I think having the skirt around the table was my mom's idea. It is attached with velcro and just great! We can store all kinds of things under there and not have stuff out in the open. That was a big problem previously. Oh, and those are bed sheets! I pulled them out of a HUGE pile at an opp shop and I think I paid 50 cents........ I love it when that happens.

That shelf thing on the left in the picture stores all of the UFOs (unfinished objects). Believe it or not, but I actually got rid of some that I knew I was just not going to finish. Someday I will get to them. Or maybe Becca will feel like finishing them sometime ;)

It's nice to see fabrics all lined up in a row. It's cheery. It also makes one remember how much fabric one has and one is reminded to not buy anymore. I have a New Years resolution going here.

For the record, I did not make that uniform! But I do have the opportunity to mend it. :yawn:

Becca made me that sewing machine cover for Christmas! I really like it. She also had the picture of Betsy Ross sewing the flag so we added that too. She's certainly an inspirational person to have in a sewing room. :)

There is Robin (the dressform) in the corner. She's nice company to have around. Real chatty.

And this is my mom's scrapbooking corner. Lots of lovely things come out of that space :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~Pillows!

2011-01-16T17:41:00.005-05:00

This is what I worked on when I didn't have ice packs on my face ;) I had never made pillow covers before that zipped on and off but it sure was fun! I would definitely do it again. They were easy and yet they add so much to a room.

Here they are on our couch at home just so you can see them all together......

And at my friend's house who asked me to make them for her. Isn't that chair great?!

They are very cuddly! I think the pillow forms were stuffed with down feathers..... I should know considering the little feathers went all over the craft room!

I put in way easy lapped zippers on the back of each pillow. The hardest part of the whole project was the piping but look at that stuff! It's huge! Piece of cake compared to piping on mid-19th century garments.

Easy on, easy off!

The End!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~Wool Regency Apron

2011-01-13T11:46:00.008-05:00

First of all, thank you to all of you who have been praying for me. My sister mentioned it on her blog, and yes, I did have my wisdom teeth out yesterday. I am doing well considering and have a very nice nurse who takes care of me :) She brought me my computer and the camera to upload these pictures and makes sure I get my medicine and am never hungry. We watched movies all day (or what seemed like all day..... I can't remember exactly) yesterday and she brings me smoothies as promised. I am in good hands :)

Earlier this week I was able to get these picture with Becca taking them. Since I am foregoing the medicine that will take me into la la land, I am also getting more done than I thought I would although I sort of feel like I have a glimpse of what it is like to be on bed rest......

Anyways, enough chit chat, I started the research for this project nearly a year ago. You can see it all in one post here and I myself referred to it often. All I did was follow the instructions from the Across the Ages website. To get the look I wanted for the bib, I did not measure from shoulder to shoulder as the instructions say. I just measured across myself to see how wide I wanted the top of the bib to be. It was a few inches short of my front shoulder to shoulder measurement. If I had used my front shoulder to shoulder measurement, it would have ended up much wider than I wanted at the top of the bib. I do confess that I used this picture as a bit of a guide to the look I wanted. I love the aprons in the Sense and Sensibility movie with Kate Winslet and Emma Thompson.

Other than that top bib measurement, I sewed it nearly all by hand with just a few seams in the bib being machine since they were the only ones that did not show. I can't remember if the instructions say to gather the bottom of the bib under the best, but that is what I did on mine as it was simply more flattering.

This fabric was leftover from another project which I have yet to post about so I was working with very little. I only have a few small scraps left actually! As you can see in the pictures, the skirt of the apron is just flat. I did not have enough to make it gathered as in the instructions but would have if I had enough fabric. It is wool tricotene (oh horrors!) which would not be the most accurate weave for wools during the time period. My only reason is that I am into using what I have and also have a goal of not buying any fabric this year unless it is ordered by a client.

I am so happy to check this project off my list! I do not really need it until the Fort McHenry seasons starts in the Spring but I need to make an entire 1812 outfit for my mom between now and then too. I am excited but know there is absolutely no use in procrastinating! I have learned it is a good idea to experiment on oneself before another person also. Working out the kinks is always good!

The pattern I used for the dress is the original Sense and Sensibility gown pattern with a fan front bodice (move the gathers to the middle of the bust instead of having the fullness on each side). The fabric is voile and fully lined. I think I need to iron those sleeves ;) I wear it with stays made from the Sense and Sensibility Underthings pattern. Normally, I have a neckerchief that I tuck into the neckline but I could not find it when I needed it as usual :).

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~1860's cotton dress

2011-01-08T18:25:00.004-05:00

I mentioned this dress way too long ago and promised pictures in this post. I am finally getting to it now! This dress was finished for my friend in time for the 4th of July. I'm not sure if she likes it more or if I do :) Here she is at a Christmas social.

I ordered the fabric from fabric.com on one of their sales. When I ordered it, my computer showed that it was a white fabric with the blue pattern but when it got here, it obviously was not! I tried to return it but guess what! They gave me a refund and told me to keep it instead! How nice is that?! Hooray for free fabric!

If I remember correctly, we used Past Patterns #702 as a base. It is a darted bodice so all I did was use that pattern for the lining and then I added fullness to the pattern for the main fabric front. To do that, you just slit up the darts to right above the bustline (or all the way up to the shoulder if you want the gathers to go that high) and spread the pattern piece out. Tape it down to another piece of paper, trace around it and use this larger piece to make a gathered front bodice. Make a mock up of course and you are all set. If that makes no sense at all, just ask. Elizabeth Stewart Clark's dressmaker's guide book is also the best resource I have found.

The skirts are gauged and I followed ESC's instructions their too. The sleeves are just bishops and again, I highly recommend ESC's dressmaker's guide.

To me covered buttons are the best thing since sliced bread (except I actually prefer my mom's homemade bread :P). I use plastic buttons all the time and just cover them to make them look period correct.

Collars are as easy as pie once you get the hang of them. I used batiste for this one (I think 1 yard will make at least 10 collars!) and Martha Pullen's website is absolutely wonderful if you are looking for all cotton lace. Just look for "edging" that is under a half inch. It really is not that expensive per yard. I had fun once and bought 5 or 6 1-yard lengths and have already used them all up on collars! Someday I will make matching white cuffs :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Colonial Breeches

2011-01-05T01:10:00.000-05:00

These were my dad's Christmas present. I would have liked to have had them done for some events back in the Fall but at least I know they are ready for this upcoming Fall season :)

I used a pattern from Mill Farm that I purchased when I was in Colonial Williamsburg. Unfortunately, I could not find a website for them but William Booth Draper does sell the pattern. I thought about using the J.P. Ryan pattern instead but I came across so many other seamstresses who had a hard time with that one. So when I found this one from Mill Farm on vacation, I went with it :)

The pattern went together so well, and while it does not have any pictures in the instructions (!!!), I was pleasantly surprised at how simple the instructions were to follow. I think it would make it hard for a beginner but the instructions are very descriptive and practically form a picture in themselves when read. The pattern pieces also have a lot of markings to help the construction process also. I found those to be really helpful. I was honestly, dreading making them so I put it off for sometime but now that they are finished, I realize how much I enjoyed it and how simple the pattern was! I would do it again AND use this pattern :)

Believe it or not but these were actually supposed to be a mock up. I used one of those canvas curtains that seem to be so common at second hand shops these days. (maybe they were a fad 10 years ago?!). It took up maybe half of one so it was practically free! The buttons on the other hand, were WAY expensive. I am not sure why. All I can figure is that they make them in such small quantities and that makes the price go up. I would really love to know about a cheaper option in place of these metal buttons. Thoughts anyone?

The only thing I did not like about the pattern is that it only comes in one size. That can be annoying if you need to make more than one pair for people who are different sizes. I am only sewing for my dad so no issues their :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Posy Circle Skirt

2011-01-02T20:18:00.000-05:00

This fabric was seen ages ago at Joanns and Miss Becca here knew she just had to have it. Or was it me who saw it and insisted she buy it so that I could make her a skirt? I can't remember. All I know is that she loves it now and I enjoyed making it. I want to say it is polyester but I can't remember that either. It is definitely one of those slipper fabrics that can be annoying to sew with :)
I do remember that I used McCalls 5811. It was simple to use considering it is a Big Four pattern. I also remember that it was supposed to be significantly longer but when I hung it up over night, the next morning the hem was rather.... wonky. Then I think I cut off too much. Life happens. Tights are great.

Invisble zipper and cute button left over from another project... And it is finished!

As Always,

Bethany Lynn

Christmas Bias Skirt

2010-12-30T11:39:00.008-05:00

I kinda disappeared on here around Christmas but I do assure you that I had a lovely Christmas and I was quite busy in between all the festivities. I do hope also that everyone had a lovely Christmas. For those that did update their blogs and shared a little bit about what they were up to and their family traditions, I really enjoyed it. Thanks so much!

My moms Christmas present was something that I think I had been promising since LAST Thanksgiving. I guess it puts it in the same category as that table runner but..... I did get it done in time for my mom to wear on Christmas Day. The fabric was found on clearance (LOVE that) and is just the perfect weight for winter wear. I do not really know what the fabric is but lets just say it is poly suiting to be on the safe side ;)

As for the pattern, I did not have one her size in my stash. You would think I would considering how many hundreds of patterns I have (ahem) but alas I did not. I was in a pinch too cause I think it was three days before Christmas when I started on it. I was not going to go out in the cold and drive all the way to Joanns to get one in her size either. So, I googled it. Do you know how nice google is? It is really nice. I came up with this link and said hallelujah. Just what I was looking for.

Now, in complete BethanyLynn style I drafted the skirt just perfectly with the WRONG measurements. Why do I do that? Lets just say I had a practice run before the real thing. That works. In the end, it probably only took me about 30 minutes to draft once I had the right measurements ;) And you know what, it was super easy. I would do some things different next time but I think over all it was worth taking the time with the nice fit and end result.

The sewing was straight forward. I officially love lapped zippers. They are easier to put in than invisible zippers and way cheaper to buy. I used the serger we have to finish the seams and I love it too. That hem tape stuff that who knows who gave me is a winner too. I used it on that other skirt and I used it again on this one. I'm glad its a big roll cause I think I will be using it a lot.

As Always,

Bethany Lynn

New Things Happening!

2010-12-28T15:35:00.006-05:00

Hello All and Welcome! If you are visiting from Practically Pretty, I hope you enjoy yourself. If you have not heard yet, there is an announcement over on Practically Pretty so go and read it ;)

That is where my brain has been over the past few weeks and I am so excited about the things that will be happening in the new year --both for me and Practically Pretty. As Grammie mentioned, I am hoping to offer things for girls and teens all the way up through ladies and maternity wear. It is a big undertaking and something we have been talking about for probably a year now! A lot of the previous projects on here are things that you will see in the new Practically Pretty store. The Changing Seasons pattern and those dresses are definitely on the list along with some skirt styles I hope to be posting soon. What has me realy excited right now are some new pattern lines from other small businesses that have been kind enough to let other home businesses use their patterns.

I've mentioned the Handmade Dress pattern line before but now that I have the patterns in hand and am picking out the fabrics to make up samples for Practically Pretty, I am even more pleased and excited about using them! Samantha Caffee is a homeschooling mom with 3 children and one on the way and is also in the process of adopting a sibling group from Bulgaria. She is just a sweetie and I have enjoyed her blog so much and it pleases me even more to say that her motivation behind her pattern line is just the same as sewing for Practically Pretty-- she wanted more for her little girl than what is offered already by the clothing industry. I doubt I am the only one who has noticed how common the sexualization of little girls is especially in the fashion and design world. I think Samantha is doing a fabulous job by offering alternatives through her patterns and I hope that Practically Pretty becomes a great resource for custom girls clothing that caters to those who value little girls and young ladies in their modesty and innocence.

Next up is another wonderful pattern line, also by a homeschooling mother of 4, who in the same way, started her pattern line for her daughter. Her name is Dawn Hansen and she is the owner of Olabelhe patterns. You can read more about her on her "My Story" page of her website. I only just recently came across Olabelhe patterns but the moment I saw her designs, I contacted her to ask about her copyright policy!! From reading her e-mail, I could tell she was also a real sweetie and was kind enough to allow me to use her patterns through Practically Pretty also. She has everything in her pattern line from jumpers to dresses to skirts and blouses, coats and even hats! Dawn, I am getting ready to place my order today! Thank you so much for all the time you have put into your beautiful designs.

Sense and Sensibility patterns have been used by Practically Pretty in the past and I certainly hope to continue using them. They are so enjoyable to use with their good instructions and quality paper. I know for sure that Jennie's Edwardian Apron (that you see all the time on this blog!!) is very practical and pretty so that is a must. ;) Her girls pinafore and pantaloon pattern is also so functional especially for active little girls.

Last but not least is an old find but with many new beautiful things! Judith Marquis of Amberlane in Canada is a very talented designer who specializes in heirloom with a lot of detail from smocking. I came across her patterns because I was looking for a nice nightgown pattern that was also pretty. I think her patterns are just that! She has a new robe pattern called "Autumn Leaves" that I am super excited about and I just can't wait to get started on making some samples from her patterns.

Well, I do hope you have enjoyed this small update on things to come with Practically Pretty. Lord Willing, this is just the start and I am enjoying it already. I have spent some time over the past few days picking out fabrics and matching styles and patterns to fabrics and writing scribbles here and there. Here's to hoping that much will be accomplished in the way of warm weather things in time for Spring weather!

Blessings,

Bethany Lynn

Another Apron......

2010-12-10T19:39:00.007-05:00

This time for my neighbor and shortened to be more 1950's esque than Edwardian! She suggested shortening it just for her ease of movement and I really like how it turned out! In case you have not seen previous posts, I did use Sense and Sensibility's Edwardian Apron pattern, again! Everyone just seems to like it and it sure is easy to make for lots of different sizes and body types.

I do apologize for not having any pictures on an actual person. It is getting quite cold around here an apron over a coat just does not look right ;) It even started snowing while I was taking these pictures! Can you see the little flecks on the table?

I did do the adjustable shoulder straps that cross over on this one. Besides shortening, that is the only change I made to the pattern. More info here on that adjustment.

As Always,

Bethany Lynn

A Day Late and A Dollar Short

2010-11-30T15:44:00.008-05:00

As I was going through the UFO bin the other day, I found this unfinished table runner. As I saw it, I remembered to last year when I was working on it. I did not get it done last year in time for Thanksgiving and this year I pulled it out the night before Thanksgiving! Just goes to show that out of sight is truly out of mind because I completely forgot about it until I saw it again nearly a year later!

I really thought I would finish it but cooking Thanksgiving dinner always takes more time that one would expect....... SO I finished it before I went to bed on Thanksgiving-- definitely not in time for Thanksgiving dinner! I think it might be officially winter now so it is back in the cabinet. But it was used last Sunday for lunch and now all of the Christmas decor is out...... at least I know it will be finished for next year's Thanksgiving!

Oh and just to keep it real, that border is some sort of polyester blend and the batting is poly fleece! I did hand quilt it and I do prefer working with all natural materials, but this works too. Don't be scared to break rules when it will work for you! Easy patterns and designs are good too. Since this was so stress free, I would love to make another table runner with a more complicated design some time. Those are the best kinds of projects :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Changing Seasons in Red Chambray

2010-11-21T15:54:00.010-05:00

I had fun last weekend sewing this one up. Same pattern but different fabric. See my thoughts on the pattern from last time over here or just scroll down a bit.

It went just as smoothly as last time. The pleats were fun to accommodate maternity and the ties were so easy to put in. I found the fitted cap sleeve to be a breeze also and they fit so well.

Absolutely love this fabric with the warp being black and the weft being red! It makes for such a great "shimmer" and more interest too. I have never sewn with chambray before but it seems to be a really great weight for fall and winter clothing and is rather wrinkle resistant too even thought it is all cotton.

The only obvious change I made was when I used the shawl collar from this pattern instead of the options provided in the original Changing Seasons pattern. It was so simple to do as I just followed the "jewel neckline" but made a bit more v-ed in the front following the shape of the shawl collar.

As for fitting adjustments, I have had to narrow the shoulders slightly both times that I made this pattern. It is a simple adjustment though that really makes a difference. A garment with shoulders that are too wide or too narrow can really not look good! I can't remember the last time I did not do this when making a dress or blouse with a modern pattern so I guess it is rather common for people to vary in the shoulder area. The Changing Seasons pattern outlines how to adjust the shoulders if needed also.

I was excited to use this Baker Lane pattern again but for maternity. I am glad that it turned out well and hope that this mother to be gets lots of mileage out of it!

Blessings,
Bethany Lynn

Changing Seasons ~Take 1

2010-11-18T15:29:00.007-05:00

I finished this dress for my mom last week in time for her to wear to church on Sunday. It is fashioned out of a simple cotton using Baker Lane's Changing Seasons pattern. I really love this pattern because it has several neckline variations and collar options. The skirt is a basic gore design but by following the suggestions, there seem to be unlimited options! I lengthened the short sleeve to a 3/4 length sleeve and was very happy to find that it was so simple. It comes with 4 sleeve options and lengthening the sleeve like I did makes 5! The instructions were very clear and the pattern is printed on nice white paper, not tissue that rips easily! It might seem rather expensive, but you do get what you pay for! I even found the instructions to be inspiring with the pictures and quotes dispersed through out.

Looking at their yardage charts, the dress seems to take a lot of fabric but as the women in my family are rather short, and this was not a directional print, I only used 3 1/2 yards.

I covered the buttons myself and I didn't have to fiddle with a zipper! I did take the time to serge the raw edges but I think this dress only took me about 6 hours and less than $10!

A friend of mine is about 6 months along and we worked on making a dress using this pattern last weekend. It was just as pretty and flattering on her also and I can't way to show you all pictures!

Until Then,

Bethany Lynn

P.S.: Some of you all asked where to get a pattern for the house dress I made for my mom a while back. This would be a great pattern to use and the instructions include information on making this dress so it will slip over the head like that other dress.

Tweed and Velvet......

2010-11-10T13:43:00.002-05:00

I fell in love with this fabric when I saw it on clearance at Joanns. I am sure I spent less than $12 on this skirt. Maybe I loved it so much because of the price ;-) or maybe, it reminded me of this skirt from the House of Bruar. Knowing the skirt from Scotland was way too expensive, I am sure that settling for this fabric was a great comprimise! Now I only wish I had more of it!

I think I bought the fabric two winters ago and I am guessing it is a poly/wool blend or something along those lines. It might be considered a tweed also but I can't say for sure. I don't know that much about textiles! The flowers are velvet and I would love to know exactly how they produced the weave and then added the flowers.

I remember cutting it out imeddiately because I was so excited about it. The sad thing is that I was just not satisfied with the way it turned out so I threw it into my UFO (unfinished objects) basket and just pulled it out last week! I guess it must have sat there for a good two years with an attempted rolled hem (what was I thinking?! This fabric is way too thick for that!), a waistband that was half on, and no zipper in site. It was also just too large on me and the shape of the gores were unflattering. Did I mention that I tried to finish the seams with binding too? I am sure you can just imagine how well that *did not* drape.

So I took off all that binding, took in the seams and serged the raw edges instead. The attempted rolled hem was as sad as can be with whip stitches that must have been at least one inch long (?!) so I took that out too. Some black poly hem tape lent it self well to this skirt and finished the hem so beautifully. I think I would be willing to wear this skirt inside out........

It was my first time to do a lapped zipper but that was only because I was desperate and didn't have an invisible zipper that was suitable. If I remember correctly it was one of those Reader's Digest sewing books that saved me. Love the index in those ;-)

Anyways, back on track here. The pattern I used was one of those that I found at a thrift store. It is just 8 gores with a waistband and side zipper. If you wanted something similar, the Beatrix Skirt from Sense and Sensibility patterns would work. So would the Walking Skirt from Folkwear . I looked on the Simplicity pattern website and there are several gored skirt patterns that would lend themselves to this pattern too.

Happy cold weather sewing!

As Always,

Bethany Lynn

~ A Hunting Shirt

2010-11-04T15:54:00.002-04:00

".... the shirt worn by Morgan and his men, as well as by many other Americans, was the single outstanding contribution of the Continental Army to military clothing. Commonly known as a hunting or rifle shirt, the loose-fitting garment was usually fringed on the sleeves, collar and hem. It was made in either a V-neck pullover or wraparound style and allowed the wearer great freedom of movement as well as comfort.
General George Washington was an early advocate of the hunting shirt. He considered it "cheap and convenient" and thought increased use of the shirt might deceive the British as to the number of riflemen in the Continental forces. Early in the war, Washington tried to get such garments for all the troops but failed because of the shortage of cloth.
As the Revolution progressed, the rifle shirt took on importance as a symbol of frontier qualities which differentiated Americans from the foe. A 1781 ballad contrasted this garment with the more formal attire of the British regulars:

Yet are red heels and long-lad'd skirts,
For stumps and briars meet, sir:
Or stand they chance with hunting-shirts,
Or hardy veteran meet, sir?"

- an excerpt from Soldiers of the American Revolution

I made this piece of outerwear for my dad last month for his Rev War Colonial militiaman impression. I used the Eagles View pattern and as you can tell, this garment has all sorts of names! When I ordered the pattern, I honestly figured that since it was such a cheap pattern that I could at least get it and use it for the shapes and sizing but that was all. I was surprised to find that it really turned out to be more helpful than I at first thought. The instructions are well worded and clear. It includes several sizes which I found to be helpful and all sorts of recommendations. It is the only pattern I could find for this style of garment but it really turned out to be great!

I used about 3 yards of the 8.0 oz. linen from fabric-store.com for the XL size. We picked a tan but I thought it was interesting to find out that they were also made in " white, black, blue, brown grey, ash and shades of green."

The only thing I changed was shortening the sleeves and changing the cape. It had you make one cape that was two thicknesses of fabric-- sew right sides together, flip out and then attach. I did not really like that style as I was going off an original sketch from Sketchbook 76. The original's cape was two "capes", one long and the other about half the length one on top of the other and each only one thickness of fabric. I made that change and really prefer the way it looks.

Sleeve gusset

I apologize for not having betting pictures of him wearing it...... I was kind of preoccupied ;-) He is on the left in both pictures.

I am working on pictures for two Civil War era wool dresses and a modern skirt that has finally come out of the UFO bin! Maybe by next week. Hard to say. :-) Thank you all for stopping by and thank you also to all of you who take the time to comment! It really makes it special.
As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~Aprons

2010-11-02T19:27:00.015-04:00

Just a few more aprons here because they are pretty and practical. A perfect sort of gift for two special birthday girls who enjoy cooking and pretty things!

You all have seen this style before. It is not complicated to make but it seems to result in a nice amount of detail. I enjoy making it because it does not require too much fit and I don't have to worry about making something as a gift and then having it not fit the recipient. I used the Edwardian Apron pattern in case any of you have not seen it before. Honestly, I love this pattern so much and find it to be so practical that I have one copy for here and one copy to let friends borrow!

Surprisingly, I was able to squeeze these aprons out of less than 2 1/2 yards each! I wanted to use these specific fabrics because I had them on hand and because they just looked like my friends! I had to shorten them a bit but other than that, it was easy. They are not directional fabrics so that helped quite a bit in being able to use a small amount of fabric.

Learning how to make your own bias tape is a must also! I can hardly ever find the right shade at the store and it is always nice to work with 100% cotton materials when the main fabric is already 100% cotton. I am fairly sure that most pre-packaged bias tape is poly/cotton. It is also rather expensive! A long, clear ruler used for rotary cutting quilt pieces is very helpful along with some chalk. It really is quite simple.

Edited to add that I did change the way the back ties from the way the original pattern instructs. I explained a bit more in this other post.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Quick and Easy!

2010-10-27T20:38:00.004-04:00

Quick and easy! This is just my speed.

My dad came home one day from work and said that he would like to give a house warming gift to someone he knows at work. He said that he knew her appliances were black and that her favorite color was blue but that she had a rather eclectic sort of style. She liked to cook but not too much and did not have very much kitchen-y type stuff.

My mom picked up some cooking utensils from Wal-Mart and we all decided she could use one of these considering ours is absolutely packed and used every single day.

But what to put with that? We thought that placemats and napkins were just perfect. The fabric was waiting for a project like this and about 4 hours later, these were finished.

This week I also made 5 pairs of mitts for colonial living history and an edwardian apron. I have some pictures to post about my dad's hunting frock and am cooking up some pretty maternity dresses with a friend! So much to do, so little time. Tomorrow is the last living history event of the season so more will be coming next week!

As Always,

Bethany Lynn

The Story of a Shirt..... more or less.......

2010-10-22T09:28:00.000-04:00

Let's be honest here. This was one of those projects where I was so looking forward to making it...... and then I was looking forward to being done with it long before I was. Don't get me wrong, the pattern was awesome! It was just me. Am I the only one who needs projects like that? Where you need something to go not so right just so you learn something that you needed to learn? Yup, thought so. Getting a sense of reality is always great ;)
He's putting "war paint" on the kids for the Boston tea party. Don't worry! It was voluntary! ;)

Anyways, so we are looking at the green-ish shirt that my dad is wearing. He requested it for his Rogers Rangers impression(google it! It is interesting!) and he had some specifications. It needed to be green (camouflage after all!) and large enough but not too large to go over another shirt un-tucked. My first mistake was when I was planning out the project. I thought to myself..... this pattern is just squares and rectangles! How much easier can that be? I don't need a mock up! Wrong. You always make a mock up. Always. End of story. Lesson number one.

So I cut it out of my linen and proceeded to follow the great instructions doing most of the seams by hand, mind you! So it is all done except for the cuffs and hemming it and my dad tries it on. It is much too large in the body and the sleeves are too long. Now what?!
And feathers on this little guy to get ready for the Boston tea party too......

The last thing I am going to do is take the whole thing apart. He brilliantly suggest slitting the shirt up the front and making it into a wrap shirt of sorts. It is period correct and solves that problem. He then suggests cutting out a bit of the sleeve length and then sewing it back together forming a seam right around the elbow. Brilliant again. Solves those problems no thanks to me. He takes it off and I proceed to make the changes. The shirt does get finished but it is still white. No problem. I dyed the fabric for these stays and these and these...... and these and for my sister's dress (which I have no pictures of as usual.) I can do that. I've done it before. I can do it again. No big deal......

Have you ever tried dyeing something green before with green and brown dye? You want an earthy color that doesn't look like a chemical dye was used..... and it is supposed to match that belt that your dad already has. Just make some samples right? Easy enough. I think I made at least a dozen. I got the one I wanted and then I forgot how I got it. That makes a person feel un-intelligient in the least. In the end, I dyed the shirt the right color, rinsed it out. End of that. But then I put the shirt in the drier. It came out the color that you see here but it was brighter and less gray when I was done. I was slightly disappointed. Just slightly.

The man has a shirt. I am still sewing...... It seems like a long time ago now but I appreciate that shirt. Simple things keep you humble? mhmmm

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

P.S: I just realized that picture with the knife is kinda creepy. My apologies. You kinda have to have a sense of humor in this living history stuff ;)

Some changes......

2010-10-21T09:08:00.002-04:00

Yes, this place is having some changes made! I hope you all like it. I really like how it turned out no thanks to me, but thanks to a very talented friend! It should be this way for a while to come and I hope you all find it as homey and inviting as I do.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~ Another Linen jacket and petticoat

2010-10-20T15:07:00.007-04:00

This time for another friend in the same pattern but View B instead of View A. In case it isn't obvious, we are looking at the green jacket and brown petticoat :-) I don't have any pictures of just her.

Linen from fabric-store.com and simple muslin for the lining.

The stomacher was so simple to construct and the covered buttons were so worth it. Now to only figure out how to keep the lacing around the buttons.......

The petticoat is as basic as it gets. Katherine's instructions are a great help too.

I'm slowly catching up on cataloging all these projects.... more to come.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

That dress.......

2010-10-09T14:44:00.006-04:00

I promised some pictures of my finished colonial outfit. I suppose I promise pictures of a lot of things. The problem is that when it is finally all finished, I move onto something else and I never remember to take pictures when I am actually wearing any of this stuff. Much to busy you know ;)

So, these aren't my pictures but they give you an idea of the day and where I wore it and kinda how it looked. If you are interested in more information concerning the pattern I used and things of that sort, look at my first post that I linked to above. Enjoy!

That would be almond oil for soap balls..........

I am not too fond of the way the pleats are in the sleeve but I am not too fond of the idea of taking them out and putting them back in either.... choices choices.

Doesn't that young lady to my right in the picture look fabulous? I think so!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Busy.....

2010-10-06T17:20:00.000-04:00

You know how it goes. Things add up. Time slips away. It is Sunday again and it feels like yesterday was Sunday. I *will* update on sewing soon but for now, I have been thinking on this quote from Blessed Femina:

"This job has been given to me to do. Therefore, it is a gift.
Therefore, it is a privilege.
Therefore, it is an offering I may make to God.
Therefore, it is to be done gladly, if it is done for Him.
Here, not somewhere else, I may learn God’s way.
In this job, not in some other, God looks for faithfulness."
-Elisabeth Elliot

It is hard to keep going on projects whether it be sewing or not. I think Elizabeth has it right. Think of it God's way.

The sense of humor of the artist in this painting made me laugh and silently made me think of that overwhelming feeling when you are surrounded by lots of .... stuff!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Ooops.....

2010-09-22T20:06:00.005-04:00

Ooops! My sister and I seem to have misplaced our camera! I have quite a few projects to catalog here but in the mean time, I have some links to offer you all that have been inspiring me lately.

Daughters of Vision These sisters have lovely taste and quite competent seamstresses! They inspire me to do some modern sewing as their things are so beautiful. Search there blog for sewing posts and I am sure you will find some things to inspire you also.

The Opulent Poppy is always a sweet breath of fresh air for me. Her blog is neat and tidy and each post usually contains inspiration of some sort whether sewing or another homemaking art.

If you have not seen Pleasant View Schoolhouse's sewing section, then you have really been missing out! I think it is considered the classic go to for house-dress inspiration now a days :)

I love all the paintings and thoughts on Home Living too.......

I stumbled across a lovely post with some very pretty dresses .........

Oh, and maybe I am the only one who does not know about the Handmade Dress but her Fall Market Booth with all of its sweet dresses was very inspiring to me! Her patterns with the classic lines and simple construction are very inspiring in general too :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

P.S.: Did you notice that none of this has to do with living history? Yup, I really want to make some modern things....... maybe soon.

A few more steps in the right direction......

2010-09-15T15:41:00.008-04:00

We are well on our way to being ready for the event on he 20th! If you would have asked me last week, I would have said that there was no way we would be ready in time! I am happy to say that my outfit is finished for now and I can just tie loose ends for the rest of the week :)

First up is this pocket that I made with some random chintz scraps that we had laying around, some white linen and some twill tape. That brown linen that was used for the bias binding is left over from my mom's stays. The idea for a patchwork pocket came from an original in the Williamsburg collection that I saw there.

Brown striped petticoat (linen from Joanns!) with twill tape ties for closure. I found Katherine's page on making petticoats to be helpful. Just ignore the bit about making it to wear over pocket hips and you have a simple petticoat that is one length all the way around. That is what I did and it really is quite simple. Everything that shows is hand sewn. I did take short cuts on everything else :)

Now, I don't have any amazing pictures of my dress but you can at least see the idea from these. I plan on getting a picture at the event on the 20th with me wearing everything. I used the JP Ryan pattern and Tawny Port linen. The lining is a linen Eddie Bauer shirt that I found for 50 cents at a thrift store! Best buy in a long while! Anyways, the pattern went together beautifully and I can't really recommend JP Ryan patterns enough. The instructions were so easy to follow and even though I did the more complicated en fourreau option, a patient beginner could make this gown!

The pleats in the back were a big fiddly (you can see the top stitched line in the first picture) but really quite simple in the scheme of things. I would say that the hardest part is setting the sleeves in. I think my sleeves were in every possible position before I got it right! Once you figure out how they go in, you have to figure out where to put the little pleats. I tried towards the back of the armscye but it looks very distorted so I ended up going with more over the arm. I really thought that would be wrong but it ended up looking the best on me. Just experiment and baste your stitches in and don't give up!

I've made myself a neckerchief out of some light weight off white linen also. I probably ought to make a cap but I do not forsee myself getting to that very soon. My dad's things are basically finished and all I need to do is make some more pockets and maybe a surprise gift or two. Off I go!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Can you guess?

2010-09-09T20:05:00.001-04:00

Yes, another pair of stays! I promise these will be the last for a while :)

Same pattern as the others. Same construction and same materials. I almost loathed making these but after a while, I sort of made a routine and can now make them rather fast :) It is nice when that happens and I honestly look forward to making another pair if I ever have the opportunity.

We had a try on this afternoon and they fit the recipient quite well. The event is on the 20th so stay tuned!

If all goes as planned, they are my plans after all and the Lord might have others (!!!), I should have a pair of breeches, leggings and a shirt for my dad finished before the week is out. They are all coming along well and I might have some more things finished too but we shall see. My list is getting shorter and shorter and I am glad for that because I only have 10 days left!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Blue Bonnet Blue Jacket

2010-09-07T17:58:00.006-04:00

So this is the latest *finished* project on my list. I have been working on several others over the past week but they are sadly in progress right now and not finished yet.

Another JP Ryan pattern was used. This time the ladies jacket in Blue Bonnet from fabric-store.com The pattern was so easy to follow, quite clear and easy to fit. I have collaborated to use this one pattern for three different women, all different shapes but the same general size and they all turned out well. I think that says that you definitely get what you pay for with this pattern company! They are a bit expensive but worth it!

The only thing that was a bit confusing to me was the picture on the front of the pattern. The two different sleeve options are not obvious in the picture. Between the three jackets, we used both options and all of the cuff options so we figured it out. It would be harder if someone was only making one jacket. Remember to make a mock up so you like your finished jacket the first time!

This pattern is made to be worn over stays and I would not recommend trying to fudge that unless you want to modify the front of the pattern. That would take some fiddling but it can be done.

This Jacket is View A and is closed with straight pins.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Periwinkle......

2010-08-29T18:43:00.014-04:00

Another pair of stays but this time with Periwinkle linen! They are really the same as the green pair but different in many aspects too. Same pattern but this is a larger size that I also had to lengthen. I also did it entirely by machine (deadlines are looming!) except for the binding. I had to put that on mostly by hand because of the way it intersects and wraps around places with boning.
The view from my new work space! ;)

front back

tabs galore!

I also ventured into the cable ties arena. I never thought I would do that but I like how sturdy they are and easy to find (Hello, Home Depot!) and how cheap!

Shoulder strap with grommets for holes and ribbon to close (yes, I need to replace that with a ribbon that is not poly!)

I started out with a 20 yard role of linen from fabrics-store.com and it has turned into 2 regency petticoats, 2 pairs of transitional stays and 3 pairs of stays of this style. There is a gown and a shirt in the works with the 7 yards left. I did not make the petticoats or the transitional stays but just assisted :) I mention it because quite a bit of it was dyed another color with different Rit Dyes. It was cheaper to buy that much at once in white instead of getting a few yards of this and that and paying shipping several times. Who can decide on several projects all at once?! I will go into some more detail on how exactly that went with pictures in another post.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Baby Gifts

2010-08-24T13:22:00.000-04:00

So, this is not a sewing project but fun none the less ;) Diaper "cakes" are one of our families favorite gifts to give - practical and a nice presentation. They are so simple to make and take very little time also.

We purchase the chargers (round tray) on sale after Christmas and the rubber bands used to wrap the diapers were purchased at the dollar store. I think we have made a dozen of these "cakes" and still not run out from the one bag! One package of diapers will do a nice size cake (we used size 3s here) and a bottle of baby lotion, powder or shampoo stablizies the whole thing in the middle. We bought large rolls of ribbon from Costco awhile back but you can do a cake with just a few yards.

A kind lady taught us how to make the bows ourselves but instructions can be found easily online. A few pins hold the ribbons and bow in place and it's done! I would guess that these cost about $15 or maybe $20 if everything isn't purchased on sale.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Linen stays

2010-08-22T15:21:00.012-04:00

I have been working on these stays for the past few weeks. We are slowly (or maybe not so slowly?!) getting into 18th century living history so it is a very new and different realm for me. More hand sewing is involved and more linen. I love both but in moderation ;)

The J.P. Ryan pattern that I am using (more stays to come!) was quite overwhelming at first. The instructions are very detailed but they prove to be very helpful. I found all of the answers to my questions in the instructions and following each step, they went together quite well.

It did take much more time than I expected but in the end, I think it was all worth it. A word of advice though, if you ever do lots of hand sewing, learn to use a thimble!

My only regret is the tabs (funny looking things that stick out at the bottom). They are fun and different compared to mid-19th century corsets but rather odd to my civil war trained eye! They did not turn out as well as I would have liked so I am sure am glad this is not a dress or piece of outerwear!

Hand done eyelets, boning channels and binding........ I did as much as I could by machine but it did not turn out to be much compared to all that hand sewing!

I would like to make a linen shift or two eventually, but for right now, my civil war chemises will have to do!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Edwardian Apron

2010-08-17T19:54:00.017-04:00

Isn't it nice when you can take a break in between the normal projects and make something for a friend? Even more so when it is for a special occasion like a birthday? Well, I had the privilege of that this week. I did not really plan on making it but I seem to like projects that are unplanned the most lately. T

This is an Edwardian apron modeled by my sister (although not the recipient!) and made with the Sense and Sensibility pattern. Believe it or not but this apron was pretty much free too. The fabric is a rather heavy upholstery fabric and was given to me a long time ago. It was from my third grade teacher when she was moving. Textiles really do have stories don't they? I made the binding using a canvas curtain because that is the only thing I had that would match! Hopefully, it will hold up well with the heavier fabrics used.

I really love this pattern because I can use one size and have it fit most anyone. I usually cut out the largest size (I think that would be a 16-18)and because of the ties/straps, anyone can fit into it provided that it is not too long. My sister, mom and I run the gamut on all sizes and the recipient is expecting. In theory, it fits the mother to be also but i will let you know how that goes too :)

Every time I make it, I always shorten it about 6 inches and it is still the perfect length for my 5'6" friend. I also took the idea for the ties/straps from the Girls Edwardian Apron pattern. As the pattern is, the straps always fall off your shoulders so I added these tabs in the back, made the straps and ties all one piece, cross them over and then it stays much better! If you ever try the pattern, try this change. You will like it :)

Picking out a coordinating ribbon proved the easiest part.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

P.S.: I apologize for the funny layout on this post. i am still learning all this html stuff!

Simplicity 2926

2010-08-09T22:46:00.001-04:00

I am so sorry this has taken so long! I did actually finish my own graduation dress but it has taken a while to get some pictures :) I used Simplicity 2926 and did not change it drastically at all. I really like it when patterns work well that way! I did end up slimming down the sleeves a bit because as they were, they kinda made me look like a quarter back. I also took in the waist area to fit it the way I wanted. Once again! Making a mock up first made all the difference! I also was a bit skeptical about the piping. I make piping all the time for 1860's clothing but I thought that it would just blend in so much with the fabric and not really matter. I was really wrong! It is really important for the dress construction and style of the dress and I think it makes all the difference.

I also have to thank my sister for this dress! She saw the fabric on the clearance at Joanns and knew I would like it! I think it cost less than $10 and with the zipper, the dress cost less than $15! I am really glad that I was able to make my own graduation dress for that amount of money because I know how much other girls sometimes spend. I have worn this dress for a few other occasions also and I am glad how versatile it is. I was not sure about using a quilter's cotton but I think the print lends its self well to clothing.

And the graduation dresses together for memories sake :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

~A Housedress

2010-08-06T11:40:00.004-04:00

My sister and I made this dress for my mom recently. Grammie helped us customize the pattern to fit my mom on our most recent trip up there. She taught us how to make sure the shoulders fit well for a more flattering fit. The skirt has gores to control the fullness. We also made sure that the neckline was big enough to slip on over her head. That way there is no messing with zippers and it really is an easy on, easy off dress!

We made the piping from some adorable light blue gingham and some thick yarn from Wal Mart! You have to do what you have to do when they do not carry the right color in stock! It is sometimes cheaper to make your own from scraps than buy it pre-made.

Over all, this dress cost less than $10 because the fabric was bought previously on sale, we did not need a zipper and the buttons were also bought on sale. You really cannot do better considering how well it fits.

Those of you who know my mother will not be surprised that since she liked it so much, she has plans for more. Lots more! Grammie told me how to change the pattern to make functional buttons all the way down the front and how to change the sleeves and neckline for different looks. All the fabrics were bought on sale so all 10 dresses should not be more than $100 together once it is all said and done. Not having to put in zippers really makes a huge difference. We bought a huge bag of white buttons when a small store had a sale and we get a lot of thread from yard sales and thrift stores. Always keep and eye out and it can really pay off!

ETA: Maria asked what pattern we used or if we drafted it. The short answer is that a pattern was used way back when but the existing pattern has been modified so many times that it really is not like the original pattern anymore! The good news is that you can make a dress like it very easily. All you need is a basic dress pattern that has darts and a basic sleeve. If you just raise the waistline and change the sleeves a bit and make the skirt gored, you have this dress! Omitting the zipper is quite simple too. All you have to do is make sure that the neckline is big enough to go over the head and that there is 3-4" of ease throughout the garment to get it over the shoulders and bust-line easily. I hope this helps! I can't promise, but there are thoughts of coming out with a pattern like this over at Practically Pretty. Drop Bettie Need a line and tell her that you would be interested :)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

How I make Quilts Part 2

2010-08-05T10:11:00.000-04:00

Hello All,

See part one here.

I finally put together all of my "Sister's Choice" blocks and started laying them out. It has taken me some time since I usually only make a few segments a day or even week. Laying out all the blocks is the most gratifying part when it has taken so long!

Anyways, for most quilts that have a set design, you do not really need to lay anything out. Since I make so many scrap quilts though, without a real set plan, I enjoy laying the blocks out and figuring out where I want things to go. I like to make sure that there is not too much blue or red in a particular section and that there is not two blocks with the same fabric near each other. Those sorts of things are easier to figure out on the floor but might not be necessary for you depending on what style your quilt is.

After I have layed everything out, I then decide if the quilt needs a border and if it does, what fabric to use. You can see in the picture that I have some fabrics layed next to the blocks in the top right corner. I just go to my stash and lay things out until I find something that works. As you can see, I like to stand at the top of the stairs to get a birds eye view of what it will look like :) I find it to be easiest that way. I liked how a thin border and another wider one looked so I am going with that. I forgot to take a picture but I must have gone through a dozen options! Friends and family are great for this step too because I do find that it is a hard decision, especially with scrap quilts! Sometimes nothing seems to look right and more opinions are helpful. Thanks to those who helped me out! You know who you are :)

If you do not have a lot of fabrics at home to choose from and need to buy something from the store, I think I would still lay my blocks out and just try to imagine what would look best with it. I was fairly confident that a brown/cream/green combo of some sort would be "safe" but I also tried pinks and purples and other colors that were already in the blocks. If you have an idea of what might be "safe" you can probably find something that will work and you can always return it! You can also bring some blocks with you as I am sure the employees at the fabric store would love to see what you are working on!!! :D

Another option is to just not do a border or make a pieced border. I did a narrow white border and then a border with just a bunch of squares on the Irish Chain Quilt. More border hints and tips here.

I numbered the rows of the blocks and stacked them all up after I chose the border and now I will put them all together. After that I will put on the borders so stay tuned for another installment on how to make the quilt "sandwich"!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Apricot Jam

2010-08-03T17:22:00.000-04:00

Life sure does get busy when the harvest is coming in! We are not able to have fruit trees on our property right now so the farmers around here have become good friends :) I was visiting my Grandparents while my mom did a half bushel worth of jam and when we got home, we helped her out on the second half. It really does go fast when you have lots of hands to help!

A friend gave us a recipe that does not add artificial pectin but takes advantage of the pectin that is already in the fruit. Next year we hope to experiment and make a jam that does not have any sugar. We are always trying to make things more healthy ;)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Vintage-y Apron

2010-07-24T07:27:00.003-04:00

This was one of those projects that had been languishing in the WIP (work-in-progress) basket for oh........almost 18 months. You know how it goes. You want to finish it but something always comes up! I had cut it out and planned to finish it for a 1950's themed birthday party but with my mom's birthday in a few days, I thought that was a nice occasion to finish it. She loves aprons and can always use a new one so I think it suits her too. I used Simplicity 4692 which sadly, does not seem to be in print anymore! Simplicity does have quite a few vintage inspired apron patterns out though. If you are in the mood to make one, I am sure you could find one that you like!

It calls for cute pockets and more bias tape than I used but...... :whispers: I ran out of bias tape and did not feel like making anymore. Let's just say that i was going for a simplified look ;)

I was actually rather horrified to find that it suggested velcro for the neck closure. I really did not think that was very polished looking so I did two vintage buttons instead.

I said this was for my mom right? Well, I might just need to borrow it!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Finished!

2010-07-22T14:38:00.003-04:00

I listened to Narnia on CD, I chatted with friends, listened to music galore and my family kept me company. I think that is what made me finish this dress. I clocked it and it took me about 12 hours. It seemed like a long time...... over 8 hours is hand sewing. That can get rather boring ;) But no matter! It is finished and it does need a collar. These are not the best pictures but they will do for now.

Oh, and those tucks in the skirt? They were a huge mistake. See...... I had the skirt finished and the bodice finished and I needed to still cut out the waistband. So I cut it out..... of the SKIRT! I thought it was scrap and really did panic when I realized. Now my skirt was too short. I ended up inserting a panel in the middle of the skirt and putting tucks in to cover up the seams. PHEW!

Till next time!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Another work in progress.......

2010-07-20T06:31:00.002-04:00

Hello All,

You know what that is right? That would be twill tape and cotton fabric attached to panels of fabric. That sounds like the makings of a mid-19th century skirt right?

And what might that be? How about the back of a bodice, a pile of piping, two finished sleeves and thoughts of blue silk taffeta buttons marching down the front of the bodice? Yup, that sounds about right! Now to just finish it so I can start work on another *before* I go on a a trip.......

As Always,

BethanyLynn

In the works........

2010-07-18T09:37:00.001-04:00

Hello All,

I think I have mentioned it before, but I really cannot work on one project at once. I have to always have more than one project! I am not really sure why but I have found it to be quite common among seamstresses and other people who have some sort of craft. I am one of those types who needs more than one project but more than one medium too! At an early age, I did not want to just work with textiles, I wanted to work with fibers also! I learned how to crochet first but I really wanted to learn how to knit. Crochet has a lot of advantages but it always seemd like knitters had the best patterns available to them. Not to mention that knitting was the most common in the 19th century and crochet was only used for small decorative trims. This made me even more motivated to learn how to knit.

Now, I could go into a lovely story about my mother or grandmother teaching me how to knit, but sadly, I cannot tell such a story! All my grandmothers live very far away from me and my own mother does not know how. Lately, a lot of women have understood this predicament of so many and one lady, has been so kind to create http://www.knittinghelp.com/ I learned how to cast on and do the knit and purl stitch from there and even how to increase. I have not mastered decreasing yet but I have not needed it quite yet either ;)

So with thanks to knittinghelp.com, I have started on a sontag for cold weather living history events! I have wanted to for so long but I just now bought a PieceWork magazine that had an informative article and pattern included. There are lots of patterns on line (like this one) but none are very detailed and being a beginner knitter, I need detail! If you ever get a chance to pick up PieceWork March/April 2009 and want to make a sontag, I highly recommend it!

(That's a knitting needle holder that I made out of repro fabric and some twill tape in the right hand corner of the picture)

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Past Patterns #707

2010-07-14T10:49:00.004-04:00

Hello All,

I have finished another chemise this time though, for a different dear friend and using a different pattern. It really is more fun to use different patterns! Makes for more interesting sewing.

Once you have used most of the 19th century chemise patterns out there, I think a person comes to realize that they are generally the same! A wide neckline, short sleeve with facings and a generous body contained in a band is really all they are. Some are easier to follow as far as there instructions go and others are better at sizing.

I have to say that this is not my favorite pattern as of yet and while I do like the outcome, I don't know if I would use it again. I am concerned that the neckline might be too large (and cause the chemise to slide off the shoulders) and the sleeve bands too small (just uncomfortable!)! I won't know until the recipient trys it on and gives me some feedback of course, but even if it does work, I didn't really like the instructions either. It really is quite pretty but I think I would rather use something like Simplicity 9769 instead. With all that said, here are pictures! I didn't change anything except to not put so many tucks in the front as was called suggested. I hope it will be less bulky that way.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Lavender

2010-07-12T09:08:00.001-04:00

I have a thing for lavender. I have for as long as I can remember but up until now I had not had the experience of growing and harvesting it myself. You don't really know lavender until you have! It smells so much better and you come to appreciate it so much more if you put all the time and effort into growing it yourself.

I honestly can not remember when I planted this plant though! I do not know if it was one year ago or three but I really thought it had died! I was so surprised when I was weeding just a few months ago and found this thriving plant! I really have to wonder if the neglect actually made it grow and my over watering from years past actually made it decline for a while!

Anyways, it is back now and I have just harvested it this past week. I really did not get very much from the plant but I think it is a good start. I hope more will come next year and if I am on top of things, I might harvest more than once. Because there was so little, I did not want to just dry it all and make it into sachets. I think I could only make one sachet if I did it that way!

I remembered that years ago we had aquired a lavender wand. I want to say it is from Germany but I really cannot remember. I did know that I wanted to make some for myself though! I simple google search turned up all sorts of helpful things and these ensued.

If you want to try your hand at growing lavender, my only tip is to check out a good herb book yourself and read as much as you can find on the plant. I learned that I had a dwarf variety but that there really are all sorts and the best times for harvesting too.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

That quilt of mine......

2010-07-10T15:29:00.005-04:00

Yes, I have finished it! It has taken me quite some time to get pictures of it but the poor thing has taken its maiden voyage so long ago that I decided it need pictures on here sooner rather than later! She has graced beds in Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia already and has been used for naps and picnics lots of places. May she have many more memories with her to come.

As Always,
Bethany Lynn

Drafting patterns........ yourself

2010-06-28T21:53:00.008-04:00

Hello all!

Stephanie Ann asked how I learned to draft patterns. I would like to dedicate a post just to answering this question because there so many ways to go about it and to learn this skill. These are just a few hints and suggestions and I hope they are helpful.

First off, I really do not know that much. There is so much to learn and while I can do some, it is not that much in the scheme of things! Keep that in mind :)

If you are interested in drafting (as opposed to draping!) historical patterns, specifically those from the 1850-1870 time frame, I would recommend checking out some helps from James Ruley and the manual by DeVere. It is mostly men's wear but also includes some boys suits along with some more structured women's garments. Drafting using DeVere's.
Resource for DeVere.

Do remember that "draping" is an entirely different creature and is what is most commonly used when making historical women's apparel. If you would like more detail on that, Elizabeth Stewart Clark's Dressmaker's Guide can help.

Now, for modern wear, there seems to be a whole slew of books out there! I have barely started to scratch the surface so I do know that it can be rather overwhelming! I have also observed that there seem to be a lot of expensive books out there that are meant for Fashion Design schools and such but those do not seem to be really within reach for most people. I know they are not inexpensive enough to tempt me! I would assume that it is the same for most people so I am keeping that in mind with my suggestions.

My first ever venture into drafting patterns myself was when I was rather young (maybe 12 or so) and I used Sew What! Skirts. It shows you how to take your measurements and draft all sorts of styles and sew them. I highy recommend it! It does only cover skirts so that is a bit of a draw back but it is absolutely the best for beginners. It will get your feet wet without being overwhelming! I was also just gifted Design-it-Yourself Clothes. I am really excited about using this one more and from what I have seen, I think it is great for those who want to take the next step and make dresses, blouses, trousers ect.

I hope you all find this to be helpful and please do let me know if I can be of any further assistance!

As Always,
Bethany Lynn